Started the day with a wonderful German breakfast, this time served to us on white tablecloths in the dining room. We had heard a gentle rain on the red tiled roofs during the night, and the clouds were still hovering in the morning. We both took some time to write in our “apartment” while we waited for the weather to clear a bit.

By late morning, the skies were more blue than gray, so we ventured out. The hostess at the front desk had given us a map and directed us to route that would loop around the southern half of the city, much of it atop the wall, built before 1400, that ringed the city. First stop, though, was the small grocery across the street. Santo wanted to “check out’ what they had. I think he was just experiencing grocery-shopping withdrawal. Of course, he had to check out every inch, loving every minute. You can take the many away from Wegmans but …. We bought a few items which Santo brought back to the room, then we headed for the wall.

We climbed the steep, uneven stone stairs and found ourselves about twenty feet off the ground. The walkway was enclosed by a stone wall on the outer side, an overhanging roof, and a wooden railing on the inner side. From this vantage point, we got an overview of the city and the many red-tiled roofs, meandering streets, and medieval houses. Santo kept to the wall side, his acrophobia keeping him from anywhere near the railed edge. We squeezed ourselves against the wall whenever we needed to let someone pass. He tried valiantly but was really uncomfortable and not enjoying this at all. We passed a few of the many towers spaced along the wall until we came to one with stairs that would take us back to terra firma.

The city was really more enjoyable from this vantage point. Keeping the wall basically to our left, we circled the city, then turned to head into the center again. This place was like Disneyland but REAL! Each of the colorful houses had some sort of fascinating detail in the shutters, doors, knockers, hinges, windows, or entrance ways. As we got closer to the city center, there were more and more shops and restaurants. Chocolate shops, bakeries, butcher shops, cafes, plus a variety of stores appealing to tourists with cuckoo clocks, Christmas decorations, jewelry, and clothing. In one shop I found a black-and-white shawl to wear for the black-and-white gala on the Queen Mary 2, along with some jewelry. We also found a necklace for Natalia and one that perfectly matched a set of earrings I had gotten for the trip.

Around 2 pm we were getting hungry. Not wanting another heavy German meal, we had decided to eat lunch out, then purchase bread, cheese, and fruit for a picnic dinner. We chose a place with outdoor seating: perfect spot for people- and dog – watching. Santo went for the Wiener Schnitzel and French fries. I opted for a lentil soup with wurst and bread, saving room for one of the “Eis-spezialitaten” I had seen on the menu. The ice cream specialties were described as works of art. The masterpiece I chose was a Black Forest sundae: vanilla and chocolate ice cream, cherry sauce with whole cherries, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream in a tall vase-shaped glass. We had to ask for an extra spoon for Santo—no way I could eat it all myself.

After lunch, we ambled back to the hotel, window shopping along the way. It was magical to be in this space, truly a step back in time. Each corner presented a new wonder.  We marveled at how all of this could have been so well preserved over so many centuries. In front of our hotel, Santo wanted to take a picture of me on the stone-stepped entrance. As I began to pose for the shot, I saw two people walk up to Santo as he framed the photo. It was our Australian friends from the rest area! Since we had been in Europe, this was the second time we had just run into someone we knew. We laughed and talked. They had just arrived; we were leaving the next day. We finally got their names: Linda and Baz (for Barry). I said I would remember Linda because that was my best friend’s name. Then she said that her best friend’s name was Debra. I love these happenstances!

By the time we got back to our apartment, the sore throat that had started in Weggis was coming on strong. In addition to a cough, I was beginning to feel a bit flushed and weary. So we napped in the cool breezes blowing in over the tile roofs.

When I woke up, Santo had our dinner laid out on the table/desk, which he had moved so we could sit on either side. He had gone to the small grocers across the street and bought our provisions. All delicious, especially my chocolate covered marzipan for dessert!

Still not feeling well, we decided to stay in. We did some more writing, then next thing I knew Santo had set the table up for cards! He had not wanted to pack two decks of cards, but I knew there would be some time during the trip when we would enjoy playing cards. And we did! It was a close game of Three-Fourteen, but Santo edged me out in the end. Felt like a little bit of home, though we missed our usual partners.

The next day, we would head to Gelsenkirchen, where my grandmother, Oma, grew up, and Opa had lived for a time. We would also visit Oberhausen, where they were married and where Oma lived right before she boarded the ship for America. I began to feel nervous. Not sure why. Was I afraid to feel something? Or was I more afraid NOT to feel something? Perhaps I realized I could go back to the place, but not the time. Was I bound to be disappointed?