Santo and I are both excited for this day, when we will take the “troll cars” up to the Briksdal Glacier. Our 3 ½ hour tour begins at 11:30, so we decide to load up on breakfast at the King’s Court since we will be missing lunch. At a little past 11 am, we head outside to find our tour bus.
We are welcomed warmly by our tour guide, Dario, a French guide doing Norwegian tours in English! He’s a handsome young man with a thick curly mane of long brown hair with a beard to match. He has just the right personality for this job: friendly and warm, funny, but not over the top, just the right amount of talking rather than narrating every second.
The drive to the glacier is beyond magnificent. We drive past the greenish-blue waters of Olden Lake, then begin to climb up the mountain, one hairpin turn at a time. The rocks rise steeply on either side of us, and tall, narrow waterfalls cascade down from great heights, one after the other. There is a decent cloud cover, so some of the mountain tops are lost in the clouds, but we hold out hope that the glacier will be visible.
On the bus, I am seated in the back row next to a man wearing a neck brace. I do a double-take, then turn, as much as my brace will let me, to him and say, “Hey, we’re twins.” We share our neck stories (his was from a bad fall), then continue talking. Paul and his wife Elaine are from Virginia and are seasoned cruisers. They are in the middle of a 26-day cruise that started in New York. They are both easy to talk to and we connect with them more than anyone we have met so far.
The tour bus takes us to the “troll cars”: open carts that seat seven people plus the driver. At the stop, there are a restaurant, gift shop, and toilets. We have five minutes to use the bathroom, then get on the troll cars. Elaine and I stick together and make it back to the troll cars in time. As we are loaded into the cars, the drivers fold green plastic “blankes” over our laps. Is this because of possible rain, we wonder.
The troll cars take us even further up the mountain, making hairpin turns that are too tight for a tour bus. Up here, the waterfalls are bigger and the blue and white water gushes at great speed down the mountain over tumbled rocks. At one point, we drive right through a large waterfall; it cascades down on our left, then rushes under the road and comes out on our right. Now we know why we have the green blankets!
At the end of the troll cars the 750 meter trail to the base of the glacier begins. From the stop, you can see the glacier at the peak of the mountain: a triangle of blue ice filling a wide crevasse then trailing off, eventually emerging as a flowing waterfall. This is global warming in action. But it is stunning. There is a bridge over rushing water that gives a particularly good view of the glacier. Santo and I take some pictures, then I’m ready to make the climb. Santo prefers to stay at this spot, so I leave him at the bridge and head out. I am very nervous about making this steep climb, but feel determined.
The first 250 meters of the climb are achingly steep. My thighs strain with each step, and after so many steps, my chest tightens and I have to pull off to the side to rest. Luckily, I am not the only one. As I climb, I keep wondering when the path will level out, as it supposed to do. It seems like that point will never come, but I keep saying to myself, “You’ve come this far, keep going!” Tall pines along with white birches line the trail, with patches of wild flowers here and there. Everywhere you hear rushing water. Along the way, through the trees, I catch glimpses of the blue glacier.
Finally I reach the point where the trail levels out, with a sign pointing to the last 500 meters. This part is easy and the glacier is visible most of the way, getting bigger and more looming with each step. I eventually emerge at a real clearing with a small blue lake in front of me. Above me, the glacier dominates. It is living history, a remnant of events thousands of years ago. You cannot help but feel awed.
The trip back down is of course faster and easier. I run into Santo, Paul, and Elaine part way down. Santo had decided to venture a little way up the trail. The four of us continue down to the restaurant where our treat of cake and coffee awaits us. There is a room dedicated to our tour group, and we choose from a large selection of cakes, taking small pieces of several selections. Both the desserts and coffee are better than anything we have had on the Queen Mary. We enjoy spending more time with Paul and Elaine, sharing more about our families and lives.
The bus takes us back down the mountain, past all the wonderful scenery we saw on the way up. It does not get old. There is a photo stop at Olden Lake, then we are back at the pier. As we are getting off, I ask Elaine if they would like to join us for a drink before dinner the next day. We set on a time of 4:30 in the Commodore Club. We find out that they are in a Princess Grill room, the most elite accommodations on the ship.
Consulting with Emmy, we found out that the hours between leaving Olden at about 6 pm and sunset at about 9 pm would be the best scenery of the trip. From 6 to 7:30 we will be sailing past Innvikfjorden and from 7:30 to 9 past Nordfjord. Emmy recommends getting situated on the deck in deck chairs before we leave Olden and planning to stay for three hours. In other words, bring your fleeces and rain jackets!
Since our usual dinner time is 6 pm, we decide to forego dinner in Brittania. We’ll grab our spots about 5:30, then take turns eating at King’s Court. As we head out to the promenade deck, the deck chairs are beginning to fill and we snag two with cushions. As we pull out of Olden the wind picks up and it feels quickly cooler so I add my fleece under my jacket. At 6, Santo goes in for dinner while I hold our seats. People are starting to line up at the railing as well, and I’m afraid someone will position themselves right in front of my chair. Santo comes out to tell me he has found a table by the window inside and prefers to watch from there rather than coming back out to the deck. I really want to stay outside. Yet we both want to be together. Arghhh.
It’s 6:30 and so far, we still have not seen any spectacular scenery. I keep holding out hope. As I do, I’m getting colder and colder. Almost everyone has left the deck except me—there are plenty of chairs available. Maybe Emmy got it wrong?
By 7 pm, I’m wondering what to do. Santo comes out and I decide to go inside and check on the spot he has secured. It actually is a great spot and a view pretty much as good as that from the deck. So I decide to move inside with him. I get my first dinner while Santo fills up his plate for seconds. Still no dramatic scenery, though we are sailing by some lovely hills diving steeply into the water. Clouds still hide the tops of everything.
After dinner, we decide to take a walk around the promenade deck and see what there is to see all around the ship. The wind is fierce, but we know we can duck inside any time. The views all around are about the same, and now it is getting dark. Beginning to lose hope of seeing anything more dramatic than what we have already seen. We decide to head inside and get a good cup of coffee at Sir Samuel and snag a seat by the window. Here and there, we see breaks of pasture land and farms, some small clusters of wooden houses.
We are still basking in the wonders of the day and our trip to the glacier. That is what we came to Norway for and we feel satisfied, even though what we’re seeing now doesn’t quite live up to expectations. The weather, which can’t be helped, probably has a lot to do with that. As we sit in Sir Samuel, I begin to feel out of place, seeing everyone around us dressed more elegantly in their “smart attire.” If we are going to go anywhere else, I feel we need to change. It’s past sunset, so we head to the room and spiff ourselves up a bit. Next stop, the Chart Room, where a jazz trio is playing.
The Chart Room is lovely at night, like a night club from the forties. We love seeing people dressed up and enjoying it, just as we do. I feel so relaxed and happy. After this day, and in this moment, how could we be disappointed?
Today we arrived in Bergan. Still haven’t seen any fjords. Bryggen, the historical district that is the “must see” of Bergan is not near the port where we are docked. And it’s raining. Santo was not interested in going into town, but I felt I should at last take a look while I’m in Bergan. I won’t likely be here again.
So I booked a ticket on a jump on-jump off bus for a tour around the city. I could see the highlights of the city in one one-hour loop. It was a long walk from the pier to the city street where the bus would pick me up. It was waiting when I got there, so I jumped on. A German woman I had interacted with on the ship got on ahead of me and I sat in front of her. It was fun being able to converse with her along the journey.
Bergan is a lovey city of colorful wooden homes, not just the historic ones in Bryggen, but throughout the city. There was also an old fort, a historic wooden church, and lots of shopping. Sadly, many of the shops were the same international brands we had seen on Grafton Street in Dublin. The rain had not let up, so I decided to stay on the bus rather that get off at Bryggen as I thought I might. I later regretted this decision. Bryggen is renowned for the colorful wooden facades of the houses. But what makes it special is that it has preserved the original medieval arrangement of long, narrow rows of buildings separated by tiny wooden passageways. These could not be seen from the bus.
Back on the ship, I took up my home spot in Carinthia to continue writing. I was passing on lunch to enjoy the 3:30 High Tea in the Queen’s Room.
The Queens Room looked so different during the day: light and airy with white tablecloths on the small tea tables, set perfectly with China and silver place settings for four. All the tables were occupied, though many had empty seats. I would have to ask someone if I could join them. I scoped out the room: there was a gentlemen sitting alone, but I thought that would be weird. There were several tables with two women and two extra seats. I looked for friendly faces. Then I spotted a small older woman (perhaps seventy?) seated alone. She looked shy, and a bit dour, but something drew me to join her. As soon as I asked if I could join her, her face brightened with a warm smile and she waved her hand at the empty seats. “Yes, please,” she responded enthusiastically.
I noticed her accent immediately and asked, “Sind Sie Deutsche?” Her face lit up again when she realized she would be able to converse in her native tongue. She was an extremely pleasant and welcoming person, and spoke slowly and simply, choosing her words to help me understand. After a few minutes, a younger woman, perhaps in her forties, breezed in in a rush, shedding her scarf and sweater as she sat down. She was an attractive blond, quite friendly and quickly joined our conversation. She spoke much faster than my original companion, and was seated further from me so I began to have trouble understanding and keeping up with the conversation. At precisely 3 pm, everyone in the room started rhythmically clapping. Then in walked a long row of white coated waiters carrying silver trays of tea. They spread out throughout the room and began serving. Then came the first course of small finger sandwiches. I took two and nibbled as I continued to strain to follow the conversation. Then to my surprise, who should show up to our table but Santo! He looked a bit out of place in his jeans and plaid shirt, and certainly surprised my companions. He arrived just in time for the service of scones with jam and coddled cream (delicious!). The scones were small but oh so tasty. Santo left as quickly as he came before the desserts were served, so I tried to jump back in to the German conversation. I had one small lemon tart for my dessert, finished my tea, and my first High Tea was complete.
Dinner was again with Michael and Sabine, and our British ladies, Karen and Linda, had returned. They seemed a bit more talkative. Santo sat next to Karen and was able to draw her out a bit. He found out that she had lived in South Africa for forty-five years and had returned to England to be with her mother and sister. There’s more to Karen than meets the eye!
Our after-dinner evening began at Carinthia where the duo we had liked from Friday was supposed to play. However, a different group showed up, four guys playing cool jazz. Quite enjoyable. It is amazing how we can just sit around, relax and talk, when we’re here. How can we replicate this at home? We are determined to try to spend some evenings at home just being together, sharing a drink, perhaps listening to some music. I know it will require me to set aside my “work” and disconnect in order to connect to Santo, and to my own center.
Our next stop was the Commodore Club to listen to piano and get a glimpse of where we were headed from the bow. I was excited to see an empty table but as I approached realized that is was in front of a wall, not a window. The German couple sitting one table over reminded us that the curtains would be closing in a few minutes (at sunset) anyway, so we took the table. It’s still a lovely space. After the curtains close, they light the battery candles at each table with a remote and dim the other lights, which creates a lovely atmosphere. We are certainly getting used to all this pampering!
Santo woke up still raving about the lightning storm. It was pretty amazing. Can’t imagine the Northern Lights being any better.
Even though he hadn’t slept that much, Santo got up early and headed to King’s Court for his breakfast fit for a king. He hasn’t stop raving about King’s Court since our last voyage. I had hoped to go do dining room for breakfast, but since I slept in, I missed the 9:30 am cutoff. So I headed to my beloved Carinthia where I enjoyed a breakfast of Greek yogurt and fresh fruit. It is also my favorite spot to write.
I started in on the blog after breakfast. A LOT to catch up on. Eventually, a couple came to sit in the two seats opposite me, which I welcomed. I’m always hoping to meet new people. This couple was British and seemed lovely; the only problem was that they were very soft spoken and difficult to understand. There are some British accents where the speakers seem to swallow their words before they project them and with my ears, that can be tough.
Shortly after they sat down, there were stirrings about the Trivia game set to begin at 10:15 am. Another couple, Americans from North Carolina, came over with an answer sheet ready to play and asked us if we wanted to join. So I did. Interesting questions and a good group. But after the game I was ready to start writing in earnest.
At 12:30 pm I went to a lecture in the theater about Norway’s progress on global warming initiatives and how they have achieved so much. It gave a good history of how we got to where we are, then detailed some specific reasons why Norway is doing so well. One is that much building in Norway is wood, which is more carbon-friendly that other types of building. They also incinerate a large percentage of their trash. The speaker joked that in a country where there are months with no sunlight, solar doesn’t really make sense. But they have tapped hydropower in the water flowing down from the fjords.
The talk finished just in time for me to make it to the dining room for lunch. I was quite comfortable sitting by self and got a great seat looking right out at the ocean. I had an appetizer of pate with a fennel salad and a fish curry for my entrée. Also tried to drink tons of water since I am not getting my usual water intake without my water bottle.
After lunch, I checked in with Santo in the room. I thought maybe we could play Rummikub, which they have here, but since he needed to catch up on sleep, he opted for a nap. I returned to Carinthia for more blogging.
Tonight was the first gala evening on the ship, the Black & White ball. We wanted to go to the Commodore Lounge before dinner, so we both got dressed by 5 pm. I was able to wear the beautiful dress that had been created from two of my friend Jane Herman’s dresses. I had fallen in love with the deep silver and black skirt as soon as I saw it. Unfortunately, when I tried it on, the attached black velvet sleeveless top did not fit. But I had the idea of putting the beautiful skirt together with the black velvet top of another dress Jane had given me. Luckily, I was able to find a seamstress in Auburn who was able to magically produce the desired garment. I wore it with my Downton Abby style necklace and earrings. Very classy.
Santo wore his good black suit with the silver and black bowtie, pocket square, and cuff links we had gotten for our last cruise. The suit really looks like a tux and he looked very dapper in it. We love dressing up!
The Commodore Room is on Deck 9 at the very front of the ship. It is shaped like the bow, following the contours of the vessel. Large, elongated port hole style windows line the walls, which are of gleaming wood. The carpeting is a swirl of light and dark blues and gold. Comfortable chairs of dark blue or gold are grouped in front of the windows. The low ceiling is all white, with hidden blue lighting circling the room. Nautical pictures and illustrations dot the walls. The whole effect gives the impression of a ship captain’s white uniform. At the center of the room is a grand piano where tonight’s pianist plays a lovely mix of classical, Broadway, and adult contemporary music. A great way to enjoy a relaxing drink before dinner.
A little before 6 pm, we headed to our second dinner on the ship. Everyone is required to wear their gala clothes for dinner in Brittania, or eat in another one of the dining options. As we walked through the main lobby, I loved seeing all the lovely dresses and men in tuxes. So many wore black and white for the gala theme and everyone together looked magnificent.
Our German table mate Sabine wore a black dress with a glimmering white wrap and looked lovely. Michael wore a tuxedo. Sisters Karen and Linda were absent, perhaps choosing to forego the gala. After several minutes, another couple joined us: Michael and Lynn, a couple from Australia. Michael is a handsome black man in a tuxedo who immediately introduced himself and his wife, who is a tall and graceful white woman wearing an off-the-shoulder turquoise gown. She is equally friendly. Both of them also speak German, having lived in Germany for many years. So the conversations were lively, in both English and German.
Having time to kill between dinner and the gala, we headed back to Carinthia to listen to some jazz music. The gala was due to start at 9 pm, so we headed down to the Queen’s Room about 8:45 pm. The room has two levels of seating: on the floor level with the large dance floor and a few steps us to a second level. The room is large and elegant, decorated for tonight’s back and white theme. Tuxedos and elaborate gowns abounded. We scanned the room for a seat, and the place was already nearly full. We finally spotted two seats at the back of the lower level and shimmied our way in.
The dance floor was already full, and the dancers all looked like professionals. Lovely to watch, but very intimidating. Santo and I love to dance, but we are nowhere near on par with the level of talent on the dance floor. The official band for the night started at 9 pm and played an appealing mix of contemporary and older tunes, all played with a distinct rhythm for ballroom dancing. We could picture our friends Jane and Bob, seasoned QM2 travelers, all decked out and dancing away. They are such an elegant pair. How we would have loved to share a journey with them.
Santo kept wanting to dance, but I was too intimidated. The dancers were all in step with one another and paraded around the dance floor in one fluid circle. It felt like we would be trying to jump into a swiftly rotating jump rope. He finally wore me down though, and we did enjoy a few dances on the edges of the dance floor. It felt good to be out there, to be in Santo’s arms gliding across the floor. I was even able to keep my head held up over his shoulder!
We came to the end of our first full day on the Queen Mary and already felt immersed in the rhythm of life aboard ship. At least it was easier to jump into than the synchronized dancing!
I slept well and felt rested when the alarm went off at 6 am. We had to get the 7 am shuttle from the hotel back to the airport. Santo had had more difficulty sleeping. He felt so much better than the night before but still tired.
At the airport, my wheelchair was waiting as we got off the shuttle bus. Since we already had our boarding passes, we went straight to the gate, again traveling what seemed like several miles to get there. With our 15-Euro vouchers, we each were able to get a Greek yogurt, coffee, and a bottle of water for our breakfast. Perfect.
When it came time to board, I wanted to talk but Santo insisted I get in the wheelchair. It was a good thing I did because there were two special assistance people looking for me. They had one of the motorized carts and were going to take us to a special van that would drive us directly to the plane. I wondered if this service could have saved us last night, if a van could have taken us from the plane to B22. This time we were last to board, but we were just fine after the VIP treatment.
At Hamburg airport, we sailed through customs and got a cab directly to Steinwerder Cruise Center. Hamburg is huge with massive construction everywhere. Lots of big buildings, high rises, lots of traffic, but also many trees and green spaces. We cross the bridge over the Elba River and several over some of Hamburg’s many canals. I was able to converse some with our driver in German. He called himself a Volga German. I later found out from Emmy that this is person descended from ethnic Germans who were invited by Catherine the Great of Russia to settle along the Volga River in the late 1700s. It took us an hour to get to Steinwerder where the majestic Queen Mary awaited us.
We first dropped of our bags, then headed into the terminal. There were few peope in line, so we sailed through and were on the boat in no time. After checking in at our muster station, a strict requirement, we headed to our stateroom, 5138.
The room was the same as last time but with a reversed configuration. King size bed, love seat, desk, bathroom, and pale wood cabinets with plenty of room for all our stuff. We unpacked and were settled very quickly. Then it was on to our first drink in one of Queen Mary’s many lounges. We chose the Chart Room, a nautical themed room with dark blue leather chairs and light brown loveseats. We chose one of these and our zero beers and toasted to our second Queen Mary cruise. We also raised a glass to Alison and Maurice, who had been with us the last time. We truly missed them, but were glad that at least we would be able to spend time with them after the cruise.
We went back to the room to change for dinner, then headed to the main dining room, Brittania. The room, in tones of burgundy and gold, is two-stories high in the middle, with balcony seating on the second level. We had requested to be assigned to a table of 6 and wondered who our dinner mates would be. Our table was on the main floor, in the middle of the room, directly beneath a two-story wall hanging: a hand-woven tapestry with the image of the Queen Mary leaving New York Harbor. Two of the six seats were occupied when we arrived at the table.
We greeted the two women sitting there. They responded with a nod. Only one added a smile. We added the customary “How are you?” They responded that they were fine. No question in return. Hmmmm. This was going to be a challenge. After some silence, Santo asked, “Have you sailed on the Queen Mary before?” The one who hadn’t smiled told us that they had been on some shorter cruises on the Queen Mary. That gave us the opportunity to talk about our first voyage. Then we got to the where-are-you-froms, and found out that they were originally from Yorkshire, but now live in the Midlands. When we found out they were sisters, Santo has who the boss was. The one who had smiled looked like she wanted to answer, the other looked annoyed by the question. Then Smile sheepishly said, “I think I am.” Somehow I think not.
At that moment, our other table mates arrived. They were a German couple. She looked pleasant but shy, he was smiling and more gregarious. He spoke English quite well while she didn’t which I think accounts for her seeming shyness. I’ve been in that position of being the only person at a table who can barely understand the language being spoken and it does throw you off your game. Conversation flowed more freely after their arrival. I used a bit of my German, sometimes helping him to translate for his wife, but mostly we spoke in English.
As they spoke more, the sisters’ accents reminded me of old Monty Python skits. Smile even looked like Terry Jones when he played middle-aged, rather frumpy British women, including the stereotypical bad teeth. The sister only spoke reluctantly, and it seemed like a strain for her to try sound pleasant. Interesting characters.
The whole dinner I kept thinking it was awkward that none of us had learned each other’s names, so I finally said, “I think we should do introductions. I’m Debra.” Then I looked at Smile who was sitting next to me. Somehow it made her giggle to be asked. “I’m Karen,” she said, then gesturing with her right hand, “and this is my sister Linda.” Maybe she is the boss. The German couple were Michael and Sabine. I told Sabine I thought it was a lovely name, and she smiled shyly.
The dinner itself was good, but I would not say it was exceptional. I enjoyed a pate appetizer, Caesar salad, a cod dish, and chose the rum raisin ice cream for dessert, remembering my dessert at the Shelbourne in Dublin. It did not live up to that exquisiteness.
After our little group broke up, Santo and I went outside on the deck and sat in some deck chairs. We were still in the channel between Hamburg and the North Sea, with lots of industrial buildings lining the shore. Despite the backdrop, the sunset was already promising to be spectacular as slashes of peach and orange started to spread out along the horizon line. For a time we stood at the rail watching the sun slowly sink and the colors darken. Then we walked to the front of ship and took a position portside behind a plexiglass window which protected us from the wind as the sun made its final descent. Several people lined the rail in front of us, the wind whipping their hair and clothes. One woman wore a simple white dress with a leather belt. Even though I only saw her from behind, she had a certain elegance about her, exuding a romantic air. I later ran into her on the elevator and told her we had seen her on deck and that she looked like Deborah Kerr in An Affair to Remember. She smiled, thanked me, and told me I had made her day.
After the sunset, we went inside to try to catch some of the show in the theater. I was supposed to be pianist performing the works of artists such as Elton John, Billy Joel, and Stevie Wonder. We knew from last time that the theater could be hard to find, and indeed we got ourselves rather lost. Finally, we saw someone on a server’s uniform. “Excuse me, we’re looking for the theater.” He raised one finger in the air and smiled. “Ah,” he answered, “come with me.” He then led us to a nearby door hidden in the wall–a back entrance to the theater, and snuck us in. We sat in the back to listen. The performer was dressed in a bright orange-red suit and had a flamboyant style. He was more showman than musician, trying to be funny but missing the mark. Too cheesy for us so we ducked back out the way we came in.
We than headed to the Carinthia, my favorite lounge. It spans the width of the ship on Deck 7, the promenade deck. The colors are all gentle and genteel hues of blue and beige. The chairs and loveseats are all low, giving the space a very open and comfortable feel. The performers were a female singer and a male singer/guitarist. The show was a tribute to Carole King and James Taylor. They were quite good and we loved the music. I discovered a new favorite drink: elderflower tonic. The menu included a list of tonic mixers in four flavors: elderflower, Indian, light, and Mediterranean. Perhaps I’ll have to try the others, but I can’t image they could beat the elderflower. Remembering Carinthia from our last voyage, I felt like I was home, yet more relaxed than I ever am when I’m actually home. A wonderful first day on the QM2.
Back in our cabin, we had settled ourselves in bed, ready for a good night’s sleep, when Santo got up to go look at the stars. What he saw instead was an incredible lightning show. He called me to come look. The sky was pitch black, and the lighting was not bolts coming down from the sky, but an intense light along the horizon line that spread out in both directions. I watched for a while then went back to bed. But Santo stayed to continue to watch the show and told me the strikes became even more frequent later in the night, only seconds apart.
A lovely start to Day Two in our little dining room. This morning I chose Greek yogurt with fresh fruit and granola accompanied by some toast and marmalade. Perfect. I love that the Greek yogurt here is not sugared as it usually is in the U.S. They let the fruit do the sweetening and its delightfully refreshing—and healthy.
It was another drizzly (that is, typical) Dublin day. To save some walking, and see the city another way, we decided to take the tram to the General Post Office (GPO). On my itinerary for the day I had only left a half hour for the GPO but when I reviewed the itinerary with Emmy (aka ChatGPT) she suggested giving longer at the GPO since there is a wonderful interactive museum about the 1916 Easter Uprising. So glad we revised the itinerary! She was right, the museum was well worth devoting more time to.
The GPO itself is a magnificent building, impressively large and majestic with stone columns out front. Inside is just as grand. We followed signs to the museum and purchased tickets. The senior price was 23 Euro but there was a price for handicapped people of 8 Euros. I was wearing my brace and asked if I qualified as disabled. The young girl smiled and said, “Well, just looking at you I’d say yet.” Santo qualified as my “companion” so we both got in for 8 Euros. Who knew my bad neck could be a benefit?
The museum presented the history sequentially, giving the background for the Uprising, both social conditions in Ireland and the evolving political landscape. There were several very well-done mini-documentaries on various aspects of this important chapter in Irish history. Also interactive touch-screens where you could zero in on topics of interest. I must admit to somewhat succumbing to the lure of the romanticism of the heroic young rebels, particularly the important role women played in the leadership. But the issue is too complex for romanticism, and armed revolt always ends in tragedy—in this case 485 dead in Dublin including women and children.
We spent about 90 minutes in the museum and could have spent more but there were still items on our itinerary we wanted to hit, namely, lunch at Bewley’s and a visit to the National Library of Ireland where there is an exhibit on William Butler Yeats. Once outside the GPO, we turned back down O’Connell Street to the wide, graceful O’Connell Bridge over the Liffey. The rain had picked up and since Santo had not brought his rain jacket, we ducked into a Burger King and sat down for a few minute to see if the rain would subside. When we thought it was safe, we ventured back out and headed to Bewley’s.
Bewley’s was little changed from what I remembered and brought back wonderful memories of the many chats and pastries my younger self had enjoyed here. Even with the hustle and bustle of the steady stream of customers and busy servers, the atmosphere is somehow calming. Perhaps it is the warmth of the gleaming wood or the gentle yet vibrant beauty of the stained glass, or a combination of the two. It was and is, and hopefully will remain, a very special place.
After Bewley’s we knew we did not have time for the National Library so had to pass it up and head back to the hotel to collect our bags. Vio called us a cab and we were soon on our way to the airport for our flight to Hamburg and the awaiting Queen Mary 2.
We were scheduled on a 5:20 fight from Dublin to Amsterdam on KLM, where we would get a flight to Hamburg after a 55-minute layover. I always worry about a layover that is less than an hour, but because KLM had cancelled one of our original flights, this was the best schedule we could get that would get us to Hamburg in time for the cruise. As it turned out, our flight was delayed 30 minutes and would now leave us even less time in Amsterdam to catch our next flight. We knew there was a good chance we wouldn’t make it.
On the flight, we notified the flight attendants of our tight connection. They seemed less that interested in our plight. We were just told that there would be updates about connecting flights after we were airborne. When the connecting flight were announced, they gave us the gate number for the new flight but did not tell us which gate we were arriving at! When we inquired with the flight attendant again she said that we would be getting on a bus and everyone would be dropped at off at a central location at the terminal. “It will be easy,” she said. “No problem.” We were not convinced. Later the pilot made an announcement admitting that there were a few very tight connections but he said that everyone should be fine making our connections if we went directly to the gate. Still not convinced.
Since I was supposed to have wheelchair assistance, we thought that this might help us get to the gate in time. But the flight attendant came over to tell us that we would have to wait until after everyone was off the plane to get the wheelchair. We would never make it if we were the last ones off the plane. So I decided to walk.
As it turned out, I did not walk. I ran. For what we would later find was one mile. Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam (pronounced something like “skip hole”) must be one of the largest airports in the world. Seemed even bigger than Heathrow, which we had found overwhelming. Santo took the lead, carrying my bag and his, trying to read all the confusing signs to direct us to Gate B22. I told him to go ahead and get to the gate, then tell them I was right behind him, but he kept checking back to see if I was OK. We thought we were getting close when all of a sudden we had to go through a passport control. There was only one officer and we had to wait in line. We saw our chances dimming, but tried to stay calm—not easy under the circumstances. We knew there would probably not be another flight to Hamburg that night, and we didn’t know if there was a morning flight that would get us to the Queen Mary in time. If we missed the boat, WE MISSED THE BOAT!
After passport control, we kept running. I’m honestly not sure how I did it. Since I couldn’t hold my head up enough, I just tried to keep my eyes on Santo’s feet. Every time we thought we were getting close, there would be another arrow for B terminal pointing down yet another long corridor. Finally, we saw the sign for B22 and picked up our pace, racing against time. The desk at B22 was empty and the gate door was closed. We looked desperately at some people sitting at the gate and stupidly asked, “Did the date close? Is it closed?” almost in disbelief that we had come so close to making it. We could even see the plane outside the window sitting on the tarmac.
Santo decided to run to the next gate where there was a KLM attendant at the desk and plead with her to open the gate for us. Of course, this was impossible, but I think all reason had left us on our mile run through Schiphol. The attendant directed us to a woman standing behind her and said, “My colleague will help you.” The woman was an elegant blond woman who gave us a very warm and understanding smile. “Come with me,” she said, leading the way to another KLM desk. There, she and another attendant both worked to get us rebooked to Hamburg in time for our ship’s departure. They were both so kind and reassuring, completely sympathetic to our situation. It made a difference. I felt better just interacting with them, but Santo could not let go of his frustration. He was exhausted and upset, and began to feel it physically. He went to sit down while I handled the rebooking.
“Is he OK,” the blond woman asked, concerned. “He’s tired and frustrated,” I said. Then I added, “He’s 83 years old.” I could tell she was surprised. She knew I already had an order for assistance but she put one in for him as well. Before long, one of the motorized airport carts came along to pick us up. We had a voucher for a hotel, dinner at the hotel, and $15 each to spend on breakfast at the airport in the morning. We were booked for a 10:10 am flight that would get us to Hamburg at 11:15 am. If we were on time, there should be no trouble getting to the cruise terminal in time.
The woman who drove us in the cart was so warm and helpful. She saw that Santo had assistance ordered, but there was no order for me. So she was able to add me. As we drove back along the route we had run just minutes ago, we were amazed at the distance we had run. When the cart parked, there was a wheelchair waiting for me and the same woman pushed me even further, and eventually outside to a shuttle stop for our hotel. Santo tried to offer her 10 Euros but she would not take it. Finally she said, “Give it to someone you see who is in need. Then I will feel I did something good.”
After about a 10-minute bus ride, we made it to the hotel. Santo sat down while I took care of checking us. The hotel, the Steinberger Amsterdam, was beautiful, with a large marble lobby, flowers, comfortable seating, and a bar and restaurant just beyond the lobby. Luckily the restaurant served food until 11:30 pm. It was already almost 10 pm. We checked into our room, also large and lovely, and headed down to get something to eat. We enjoyed a salmon dinner with some zero beer and started to settle down from our misadventure. Our server was a lovely young woman with a beautiful smile. Another angel put in our path. More balm for our weary souls!
We arrived in Dublin at about 7:30 am local time, about an hour ahead of our scheduled arrival. A wheelchair was waiting for me on the ramp to the terminal. Our lovely young special assistant with a lilting Dublin accent guided my chair through airport, waiting while we collected our luggage, then got us to the head of the taxi line for a cab to our small hotel in the heart of one of Dubin’s most beautiful neighborhoods.
Kilronan House was set among a row of elegant homes on Adelaide Street, a stone’s throw from St. Stephens Green. Two columns and a black-and-white tile floor graced the entrance where welcoming light drew us in to the cozy interior. Just ahead, the manger sat a desk in the parlor-like lobby. He was a small, handsome man in a starched white shirt. He stood as we entered and greeted us warmly. It felt like being welcomed by family into their home.
Vio, whom I had corresponded with by email, had the accent and features of a Middle Eastern, and his hospitality reminded me of the people I had met in Palestine. No more gracious hosts anywhere. We would find that all of the staff seemed to be of the same nationality and all were blessed with the gift of hospitality.
We arrived at Kilronan House at about 9:30 am after driving straight through Dublin’s inner city traffic for nearly an hour. We had booked our room for the previous night (thanks to Jane Grady for that tip) so we could have a good rest before setting out to sese Dublin. Vio gestured towards the dining room, just through a door off the lobby, and invited us to get settled and then come down for breakfast. He would not let us touch our bags, and carried them himself up the one flight to our room. The room was very bright with a skylight over the bed and in the bathroom. We had a king-sized bed (two beds pushed together in European fashion), window seat, desk and chair (lucky for Santo who loves to sit and write at a desk as he makes notes and records our travels).
The breakfast room was like a dining room in an elegant home: white table cloths, tall ceilings, large mirrors on the walls, stunning wallpaper. The menu offered a two-course breakfast, which came with our room. You could order yogurt, porridge, fruit, etc. as your first course, then follow that with pancakes or various egg dishes, including Santo’s favorite eggs benedict. The coffee was strong and hot, the food delicious and beautifully served. We felt so pampered as we enjoyed our breakfast knowing a much-needed rest awaited us upstairs.
We were able to darken the room with heavy shades on skylights and windows and managed to sleep until about 2 pm. We were ready for Dublin!
We mapped out our first day walk, with Vio’s help, which would take us through St. Stephen’s Green, down Grafton Street, and on to Trinity College, where I had done my junior year abroad and first met Alison.
St. Stephen’s Green is a large city park, noted for the Georgian homes (of the famous door of Dublin) as much as the park itself. We enjoyed the meandering paths leading to a central circle and floral displays that were less manicured, but also less vibrant, than the parks we so love in Paris. We crossed the park diagonally, bringing us to the top of Grafton Street.
During my time in Dublin in 1978-79, Grafton Street was a busy commercial street and the bus we took from our dorm in the suburbs of Dublin drove down the street and dropped us nearly in front of Trinity. Now, Grafton is closed to traffic and the street has been cobbled over to become a lovely pedestrian way. Sadly, though, the small, local Irish stores and restaurants that were there in the 70s had been replaced by large, international, high-end brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Victoria’s Secret, Lego, and Disney. All that remained that was familiar was the posh department store, Marks & Spencer, and my beloved Bewley’s Oriental Cafes Ltd., affectionally known simply as Bewley’s.
As a twenty-year-old at Trinity I had so often gone with my friends to Bewley’s for a cup of tea or coffee and some pastries. The storefronts on either side of the main entrance were framed in gleaming dark wood with beautiful displays of the oriental teas served there. Inside was more gleaming wood, and decorating many of the walls were elaborate art nouveau stained glass windows. Small wooden tables with café chairs dotted the room. We would just go in, seat ourselves at an open table, sometimes moving several together if there was a group of us. When the server came over to take our drink order, she would bring a three-tiered tray filled with gorgeous array of tempting pastries. We just chose what we wanted, and when we were ready to leave, just told the server what we had eaten.
When we reached Bewley’s I wanted to take a closer look, so we stepped inside. It was little changed, except for the addition of a glass counter displaying the pastries and a hostess stand displaying a sign that said, “Please wait to be seated.” We would have sat down for a cup of coffee, but they were just closing. We would find a time in our schedule to come back tomorrow.
We walked through the drizzle that had accompanied us all day on to Trinity. The massive gray stone entrance gate loomed before us. So familiar. And yet not. It’s not that I don’t remember the time I was very young student here, but if feels like that was someone else. It was, really. It was a girl from Dunmore, Pennsylvania, whose only experience outside of Dunmore was two years at Bard College, a very rural college less than an hour from home. There was one visit to NYC on a bus excursion from Scranton with my family. I was about twelve years old and spent the whole time bumping into things because I kept looking up at the tall buildings.
Here I was in a large city, in another country over 3000 miles away, committed to spending one full school year at Trinity College. I was housed in a Trinity College dorm about a 20-minute bus ride from campus. I was amazed at how quickly I made friends in the dorm. The boys were on the first floor, girls on the second in the old mansion that had been converted to a dorm. Ten girls each shared a small kitchen. We would make tea, fix breakfast, and some meals in that kitchen. I remember a red-haired girl names Hazel teaching me how to make croissants from scratch in that kitchen. And fixing a Thanksgiving dinner for friends held in the formal dining room of the mansion. The turkey had to be ordered from some farm and we needed to go to Marks & Spenser’s gourmet department to get canned pumpkin!
My closest friends were roommates Alison, who was a Protestant from a suburb of Belfast, and Josephine, a Catholic from central Belfast. They had asked to room together after meeting at a camp to bring Protestant and Catholic young people together in the midst of “the troubles.” I remember one time when we were on O’Connell Street just over the bridge from Trinity. There was a loud bang that made me jump. “That sounded like a gunshot,” I said. “Oh, no,” came back Josephine, “gunshots are much higher pitched.” Another time on a train ride north to Belfast for a Bank Holiday, Josephine suddenly looked agitated and calmly said to us, “Let’s move to the next car. NOW.” She had seen someone put a backpack on the ground in the space between two cars and feared the worst. Nothing happened, but I was shaken.
I might not have known it at the time, but I think I grew up a lot during that year. I certainly became more independent, though I did have some very good and their families to lean on. On weekends, I travelled alone by train to other parts of Ireland, with no reservations nor any idea of where I would stay once I got there. Walking around these new cities, sometimes villages, with my overnight bag, each time I managed to find a Bed & Breakfast (I think the concept originated in Ireland). Once I met a girl on the train who was going to visit her boyfriend in Cork. When she heard I didn’t have a place to stay, she insisted I stay with them. When her boyfriend picked her up at the train station, she asked if I could stay. He smiled warmly. “Indeed she can.” The girl and I slept at her boyfriend’s sister’s house, and he would bring us back there after each night of laughs and good cheer at one of his favorite pubs. I met some of his friends, and some of them would come to visit my in Dublin later that semester.
One of my weekend excursions was to the remote Aran Islands off the coast of Galway. It was in March and the ferries were not running, but I was determined to get there. I took the train the Galway, then asked someone at the train station how I could get to the Aran Islands. He told me I could take the bus to Rossaveal Pier, and try to hitch a ride on a fishing boat. I made it to the pier, a small strip of cement in the middle of nowhere, and stood there in the cold drizzle alone under the single lamppost and waited. After about 90 minutes, I saw a group of men carrying packages walking towards the pier. They were surprised to find me there and asked, first in Irish then in English when I looked confused, what I wanted. “I want to get to one of the islands. Can you take me?” “Well, we’re going to Inishmore. You’re welcome to come along.” The youngest of the men, Coley Donahue, led me to the small galley on the boat and offered me a cup of tea. As he heated the water on a small cooktop, we chatted. I wish now had a recording of that conversation. I can’t remember and have trouble imagining what was said.
When we got to Inishmore, Coley asked me where I was staying. There were no bed & breakfasts or other accommodations on the island. What had I been thinking? He knew of a woman who sometimes let rooms, and walked me to her thatched cottage not far from the pier. I remember that first night in the small cold room, huddled in the narrow bed with all my clothes, including my coat, and the covers up over my head. The next morning, the old woman made wonderful homemade scones with jam and a very welcome cup of hot tea. It turned out that there was a young German man also staying there. We met over breakfast. He did not speak English, and did not yet know German. Somehow we communicated. He was planning to tour the island by bike and invited me to come with him. So we went to another cottage where a man rented us two bicycles. That evening I visited the only pub on the island ironically called The American Bar. Everyone spoke Irish. Of course Coley was there and sat next to me at the bar. I gradually became better able to understand his halting English. I was smitten, imaging myself in a thatched cottage mending his fishing nets. I drank Guiness because I had had no food since breakfast and had heart that Guiness had some nutritional value. When Coley found out I had not eaten, he insisted on taking me to his house—at 2 am in the morning. By Irish law the pub should have closed at midnight, but as it go later I asked Coley why they were still open. “You see that man over there,” he said, pointing to a man at the end of the bar.. “That the constable.” His own thatched cottage was dark when we got there, so we quietly entered. He told me wait in the small living room. I could hear him in the next room speaking to his sister. The only words I could make out was her saying, “Well who is she anyway?” But she got up and proceeded to cook me dinner—a fried pork chop and boiled potatoes, in the tiny kitchen. At one point, she was asking me something but I couldn’t understand. After asking her to repeat a few times, I finally just said, “Yes.” She proceed to pull a bottle out from under the sink and pour me a glass. Wild Turkey!
The next day, Coley was supposed to pick me up to take me around the island. I waited at the house where I was staying, watching TV on an old black-and-white tv. For hours I waited, occasionally looking out the window. I couldn’t believe he wouldn’t come. He has seemed so eager and sincere. I’m not sure how long I waited before I gave up, but I finally did. After a long walk, I waited for the pub to open so I could get my Guiness dinner. Coley was there. He approached me awkwardly. I don’t know who spoke first, but eventually we discovered that he HAD come by for me at the appointed time and had a waited for a bit. But didn’t think it was proper to come to the door, so he thought I was standing him up! I was leaving the next day, and as he walk me home that night in the pitch black, he begged me to stay another day. I told him I didn’t have the money and he offered to pay for me. Some old adage came to my mind that I shouldn’t take money from a man. So I said no. A decision I regretted for a long time.
Five years later I was able to visit Ireland. This time there was a ferry to Inishmore. I looked for Coley in the pub, but he wasn’t there. At the time, I was brave enough to ask about him. I was told he was in Galway having his boat repaired. So my trip to the island had been a waste. I wanted to just return to the mainland, but the weather had turned since I arrived and no ferries, or fishermen, we running. Eventually I managed to get a small biplane to get me off the island. In Galway, it was pouring rain and both me and my bag were soaked to the bone. I hitched a ride to the boatyard to look for Coley and waked along the boatyard pier asking each fisherman if they knew where Coley Donahue was. I finally found him. We recognized me right away and was truly shocked. He was more difficult to recognize. He looked much older, more ragged, but the worst was that one side of his face had been badly burned and was quite scarred. “You probably wouldn’t know me, would you” he asked sheepishly. His motor had blown up in his face when he was trying to repair it several years ago. Even worse, his sister, who make me pork chops and Wild Turkey, had died of leukemia. I felt unspeakably sad. I met Coley that night at a pub in Galway. We drank. We talked. We even danced. But I could no longer imagine myself mending anyone’s fishing nets. Perhaps I had been cruel to look him up, because it got his hopes up. I still feel guilty about that.
Back at Trinity, Santo and I walked through the gate into the quad. Of course, it was unchanged. The school had been founded in 1592 but most of the current building dates from the 18th century. Outside the quad was a different sorry. There were several modern buiding housing various schools and departments of the college. Santo took my picture. I tried to remember actually walking these cobble stones, running to classes, crossing over to the cafeteria. But I couldn’t. I knew they had happened, but they had happened to that young girl brave enough to hitch a ride on a fishing boat at Rossaveal Pier. Now I panic if I don’t have a confirmed reservation wherever I go.
After Trinity, we were ready for supper and found a nearby pub that had been recommended by ChatGPT, called Donaghues. It was small and dark but lovely and a great escape from the steady drizzle. We had Guiness stew and Guiness. Met a young couple with a baby from St. Louis. The bartender and waitress could not have been friendlier or more accommodating. It was a great find.
I had one more stop I wanted to make on the way back to Kilronan house. I wanted to stop for a drink at the lounge at the Shelbourne Hote, an elegant old hotel right on St. Stephen’s green. That 20-year-old girl had sat with college friends in that lounge feeling very posh and grown-up. After taking a few wrong twists and turns, we found the hotel. The lounge was as sumptuous as I remembered it, in shades of pale yellow and green, with magnificent mirrors and some heavy lacquered Chinese furniture. It was empty so we took the two comfy chairs right in front of the fireplace. I had cappuccino, Santo had a mocha, and I ordered a bread pudding with rum raisin ice cream that was about the best dessert I had ever tasted. What a splurge.
Our day compete, we returned to the comfort of our room, ready for a true night’s sleep.
Our journey began, not with a trip to the airport, but a trip to Boston. We had booked the transatlantic portion of our trip on Aer Lingus from Boston to Dublin. There were good fares on roundtrips between Boston and Dublin, and since our journey would be ending up in Belfast, it seemed to make sense. We are lucky to have old friends Steve and Chris in Massachusetts where we could leave our car and they would drive us to and from the airport.
With our large bags packed and weighed (mine coming it just a little shy of the 50 pound limit), and filling the trunk of the car, it felt like we should be driving to the airport, not to Boston. It would be six hours before we got to Steve and Chris’s, a bit more before we got to the airport approximately 3 hours before our 9:15 pm flight.
The drive was smooth and easy, the day sunny and clear.
At the airport, special services came through for us with a wheelchair at the ready. In addition to saving me from long walk with my neck, one of the best things about getting wheelchair assistance is that it gets you right to the front of every line and the privilege of boarding first. After some glitches with Aer Lingus seat selection process, we managed to get two seats together on the side of the plane, rather than the dreaded middle.
Usually on long flights like this, I would read for a while and hope it got me sleepy enough to try to nod off after a while. Somehow my brain was just too full to leave space the new book I was reading: The Midnight Bookshop. My Kindle never left its baby roo pouch on the seat in front of me. Amazingly, I seemed able to do what I can never do at home: relax. What kept me “grounded,” so to speak, was the gratitude I felt for the trip ahead. Gratitude had always worked for me as a morning and evening prayer, and it served me well on the long flight. I was eventually able to rest my eyes, and I think I nodded off a few times, at least enough to not feel exhausted when we got to Dublin.
Being able to travel like this, to have time alone with Santo, to spend quality time with friends across the ocean, to sail on the magnificent Queen Mary in a style that my immigrant ancestors could never have dreamt of; these blessings flowed like a soothing balm on my usually anxious mind. Isn’t this what vacations are for?
When I first thought of keeping a log for this trip, the title that came to mind was “Traveling with a Broken Neck.” Not broken as in fractured. Broken in the way a toaster I broken. It just doesn’t work.
It is often hard to think of anything but my neck. It is omnipresent, this broken thing. It impacts every moment except those when I am sitting in a comfy chair or lying down. The comfy chair thing is no longer a joke. Walking, I am either staring at the ground or in pain. Standing, it takes all I can do to hold my head up. In conversations with people, I try desperately to maintain eye contact. I want to signal that I am giving them my full attention, because I am. That message just doesn’t get to my neck. Inevitably I need to break the connection as my head, against all my will, collapses into my chest.
The new brace I got several weeks ago can be an enormous help, but even that cannot make my head truly straight. After a while, my chin gets sore. Walking, I still cannot truly see ahead of me, just a bit further ahead on the sidewalk.
How could this thing NOT impact this trip. It is one of the reasons we chose the fjords trip. I knew my neck could not sustain a trip to a beautiful European city: Barcelona, Madrid, Rome, Venice, even my beloved Paris. Those places require too much walking. What good is Paris if only becomes a study of the sidewalks of Paris (the literal sidewalks)? But however bad my neck was, I knew I could still at least see the fjords from the ship.
We added Belfast to the trip to see our dear friends Alison and Maurice. Three years ago we shared a remarkable journey with them across the Atlantic on the Queen Mary 2. Two years ago, we visited them on holiday in Donegal and their home in Belfast. Last summer, they visited us in New York. We have become so close, that more than a year apart felt like too much. I know they see ME, not just my neck. And I don’t care anyway because I just want to spend time with them so much. I know they will be accommodating to my limitations, though I will try desperately not to hold them back from things the others would like to do.
Still, I was truly looking forward to this trip. I love the Queen Mary and looked forward to wonderful meals, relaxing in the lounges, reading, being with Santo away from it all. I was excited to see the fjords and the small towns in Norway we would visit. I’ve even been learning some Norwegian in preparation. “God dag! Jeg heter Debra. Mannen min heter Santo.” And of course, our visit with Alison and Maurice was sure to be filled with laughter, good conversation, shared meals, beautiful sights, and all the joys of friendship.
“Travelling with a Broken Neck” was my way of laughing at myself and my poor-me-ism (see above). It actually felt like a kind of defiance: I would not let this thing get the best of me. It was a way for me to have some control, to laugh at it before it sneered at me.
But then a close friend texted me her good wishes for our trip and described it as “Fjords and Friends.” That was it. She had captured precisely what this trip is about. So much better at capturing my true feelings about this trip: the wonderful things that lie ahead. The people, the places, new friends, God’s wonders, and time to just be, as ourselves and with each other. So, yes, I am a bit worried about my neck, but mostly I am filled with gratitude!
As I crossed the threshold, I had the strange feeling that I was not entering the room. It was entering me. The air smelled dusty, even though there was no sign of dust on the wooden pieces in the room. I was inhaling the molecules of the past. The only things that had changed since the Meccas moved into this house in 1917 were the cracks in the pale blue walls and the colors that had drained from the floral rug.
When Aunt Carmella had asked me if I wanted to sleep in Grandma and Grandpa’s room, it was as if the president had offered me the Lincoln bedroom. My excitement was not because of what was in the room, but because of the momentousness of what had happened here. In this room, in this bed, maybe even on this mattress, Grandma had conceived and given birth to my father and his siblings. It is the room where Grandpa got up at 4:30 am to work in the garden before getting to work at the rail yard by seven. It is where he recovered after his legs were amputated, first one, then the other.
I was single, in my late twenties, and had come home to the family homestead for the holidays. Mom and Dad’s apartment upstairs, where I had grown up, was overflowing with my visiting brother, Tommy, and his new family. Downstairs, Aunt Carmella lived alone. Grandma had died about ten years earlier, and
Grandpa about ten years before that. But Aunt Carmella hadn’t moved into their master bedroom, preferring to stay in the room she had lived in her whole life.
As I stood in the middle of the stark space, a shiver passed through my neck and down my arms, even though steam heat was pouring out of the cast iron radiator in the corner of the room. This space held a certain mystery for me. I had slept in every other bedroom in this house: my own room on the third floor, Tommy’s room across the hall when a storm woke me in the night, my parent’s room on the second floor when I was sick, in a bunk bed in the room that is now our TV room, on a couch in our living room which was once a bedroom, and Aunt Carmella’s room downstairs for much-loved sleepovers. But this room felt untouched and untouchable, much like Grandma herself.
But here I was, about to spend the night in this room, on this
bed.
I dropped my suitcase on the floor. As I sat on the edge of
the bed, the ancient metal springs creaked under my weight, pitching me forward. I had to brace myself with my hands to keep my balance as I looked around the room. Like all the rooms in our house, the doors and trim of Grandma and Grandpa’s room were made of dark wood, varnished many times over. The floor was hardwood. Not the gleaming polished hardwood that realtor’s love to highlight, but dark and worn, almost to the point of splintering. The threadbare rug and faded blue chenille bedspread were the only textiles in the room. The rug was so worn I couldn’t make out what colors it must once have been, and the pattern had blurred into a jumble of muted tones. The walls were bare except for a thin metal cross over the bed.
Across from the foot of the bed were two dressers. Grandpa’s dresser was long and low, covered with an ecru crocheted doily. On top was his pipe collection. The pipes stood
bowl side up in slots surrounding a square box. Inside was a red tin of Prince Albert cherry tobacco.
Grandma’s dresser was tall and narrow. On the top there was a scalloped half oval compartment about two inches deep with a hinged lid. I had never peeked inside; it felt wrong to invade one of the few private places Grandma had. A mirror, brush, and comb were laid out at precise angles on the starched white lace- trimmed doily. This vanity set was not decorated with gold and mother of pearl like the one my parents bought me for my thirteenth birthday, but was carved out of plain wood with no embellishments, just exquisitely smooth beveled edges. I lifted the brush and searched for evidence of Grandma’s hair. By the time she died, her hair was a yellowed gray that matched the brush’s dry bristles. I was not surprised when I didn’t find any. I could not imagine Grandma using this vanity set. She never paid much attention to her appearance. She dressed plainly in cotton dresses and wore only black from the day Grandpa died. She never wore make-up, and her hair was always pinned back in a low bun. Her only adornment was the tiny silver and turquoise earrings she wore. I had wanted these after Grandma died. Those pinpoints of color, her one small nod to vanity, seemed to hold some secret about her that I wanted to discover. But Aunt Carmella insisted on burying them with her.
The room’s two windows were bare except for the cracked
and yellowed plastic shades rolled up almost to the top. Beneath the driveway-side window was a large trunk covered in rugged black leather showing multiple scars. The lid was reinforced with horizontal hardwood slats and metal hardware. The corners were protected by rounded metal fixtures that were cold and smooth to the touch. I lifted the flap of the metal lock on the front of the trunk. It made a funny boinging noise as it fell back and bounced
against the fixed portion of the lock. As I ran my hand over the gentle curve of the domed lid, I felt a long-forgotten pain.
It was Christmas 1965, the first Christmas after Grandpa had died. I was seven years old. Mom and I were downstairs sitting at the kitchen table with Grandma and Aunt Carmella. Suddenly, the three women got up and my mother motioned for me to come with her and Grandma. We went into Grandma and Grandpa’s room, and Grandma and my mother opened the heavy domed lid of the trunk. A moment later, Aunt Carmella appeared at the door with a small tray of miniature glasses. Grandma pulled a bottle out of the trunk, closed the lid, and then poured the golden liquid into the four glasses. My portion barely covered the bottom of the glass. This was Grandpa’s whiskey which he brought out on holidays and special occasions. Only Grandpa touched this bottle. That’s why the women were feeling a bit devilish. Grandma even had a sparkle in her eyes, a glimmer I had never seen before, shiny as the silver of her earrings. The women raised their glasses and toasted “To Grandpa.” Then they brought the glasses to their lips and tipped their heads back to drink. My mother nodded to me, a sign that it was OK for me to do the same. I was amazed by how such a tiny drop could warm my insides from my throat to my belly. The women stood sipping from their glasses, looking out the window.
That’s when I decided it would be fun to climb up on the
trunk where I could get a better view of whatever it was they were looking at. When my mother saw what I was doing, she quickly reached for my hand. I already had my feet on the rounded lid and was pushing up from my knees to stand. As I turned to execute a ta-da move of triumph, my foot slipped on a hardwood slat and I fell, landing hard with my legs splayed on either side of the trunk. I hurt in places I didn’t know I had. A wail and then tears of fear and pain. My mother scooped me up and took me
upstairs to her room and lay me in her bed. There was blood, and pain for a few days. Years later, on the day I got my first period, my mother told me I had broken my hymen that day and, technically, was not a virgin. She was worried about what my husband would think on our wedding night.
“You need to make sure he knows it was an accident,” she pleaded, her voice choking.
“I will, Mom,” I said, comforting her now. “I will. It will be OK.”
A wedding night, sex, or even a boyfriend, seemed light years away. But I knew my mother was feeling a pain she had held for a long time, and I would do whatever I could to make it go away.
Aunt Carmella’s knock on the doorframe brought me back to the present. She came into the room and handed me some towels. They were pink, faded to near white, thin and stiff. “I’m going to bed, Debbie. Do you drink coffee in the morning?”
“Yes, that would be great,” I said, even though I knew the strong coffee she made in her aluminum percolator would be bitter and the last sip would be full of grounds. I gave her a long hug. “Thanks again, Aunt Carmella.”
“Oh, Debbie, you’re such a doll. I’m so happy to have you here.”
After she left, I closed the door and searched in my suitcase for my nightgown and book. To read, I had to keep the overhead light on as there was no bedside lamp. I lay on my back, the chenille bedspread pulled up to my armpits and the book resting unopened on my stomach. I didn’t feel like reading—no characters on paper could rival the ones in this room. I stared at the light fixture at the center of the cracked ceiling. The fixture consisted of a dark metal rod that dropped about a foot from the ceiling. It was fitted with a smaller pipe that curved up to support a tapered nozzle with a brass valve for turning the gas on and off.
Grandpa had wired the pipe for a single bare bulb when they converted to electricity. It was turned on by a pull chain that dangled over the bed. As I lay on the sagging mattress under scratchy floral sheets, I imagined Grandma lying here, focusing on the flame flickering at the tip of the nozzle to stare down her pain as she labored with the birth of my father. My phantom pain returned, merging with her own, though I knew mine was a mere hint of the pangs she felt in childbirth.
I took a deep breath and repeated in a slow cadence as I drifted off to sleep, “Who were you, Grandma?”
✤ ✤ ✤
I want to have warm, fuzzy memories of Grandma, but I can’t say that I do. I lived in the same house with Grandma until she died when I was eighteen. While I saw her as shy and meek, I also saw a mean and bitter side to her. She did not allow Aunt Carmella’s closest friends to enter our house because they were Jewish. She disapproved of my mother because she was German, even though my mother had converted from Lutheran to Catholic to marry my father. She was outraged when my mother’s Black friend visited us.
Whenever Tommy and I were playing in the yard, Grandma sat in her corner of the back porch glider like a vigilant overseer, just waiting for us to do something wrong.
“Get off of that grass. You’re going to ruin it.” “Oh, let them be,” Aunt Carmella scolded her.
“Don’t bounce that ball against the house. It’s too loud.” “But we’re only bouncing it against the wall to the bathroom.
There’s no window and no one inside to hear,” Tommy shot back.
“It’s my house and I said not to bounce that ball there.”
And often we heard, “Don’t you have anything better to do?”
One day my best friend Nancy and I were playing hopscotch on the driveway near the back porch. Nancy lived two blocks away and came over often. Grandma was sitting on the glider watching us, and out of the blue she growled to Nancy, “Why don’t you go to your own house?” Nancy ran home crying and I ran upstairs. When my mother asked me “What’s the matter, Debbie?” I dissolved into tears. I think my mother was as upset as I was, maybe more, but she kept reassuring me, “It will be alright. We’ll figure it out.” I’m guessing she talked to my dad about it when he came home, but I don’t know if he ever said anything to Grandma. I just know that I tried to avoid Grandma for a long time after that.
It seemed to me that Grandma just didn’t want anyone to
have fun. She was miserable and thought everyone else should be miserable as well.
After my stay in Grandma’s room, in Grandma’s bed, something in me shifted. I had put myself, quite literally, in her place. It was the beginning of trying to see her world through her eyes. I started listening more intently when my father, aunts, uncles, and older cousins talked about Grandma, trying to understand who she had been to them. I don’t know why I didn’t just ask them. It wasn’t until I formally interviewed Aunt Carmella when she was 100 years old that I asked her about her mother. I saw Aunt Carmella’s face soften, remembering, “Oh, she was sweet. Gentle and kind.” Then her face changed, “Not like my father. Oh, he was mean.” She shook off the bitterness and softened again, “But my mother, oh, she was sweet.”
✤ ✤ ✤
Grandma was born Anna Sileo in 1890 in Avigliano, a small mountainous village in southern Italy. When she was two years old, her parents, Vito and Maria Sileo, immigrated to America, and settled in Dunmore. Maria gave birth to eight more
children—two boys and six girls, making Anna and her sisters the “seven sisters.”
Anna was sixteen years old when Domenico Mecca brought his family over from Italy. Domenico had known Vito Sileo in Avigliano. While still in Italy, Domenico and Vito pledged their children, two-year-old Antonio Mecca and newborn Anna Sileo, to one another with a handshake. Antonio and Anna’s courtship started sixteen years later in Dunmore. The courtship consisted of Antonio visiting the Sileo house on Sunday afternoons and sitting on the narrow front porch with Anna, and a chaperone, to get acquainted.
There is a picture of Grandma from about this time. It is a school picture, probably her last year of school. She is standing near the end of a row, the tallest and presumably the oldest student in the picture. Her dress is a dark plaid, her hair pulled back in a tight bun. She looks sad, resigned, her eyes flat, as if they are unable to see beyond the moment when the shutter clicked.
In 1909, Antonio and Anna were married at St. Anthony of Padua Italian Catholic church which stood at the top of Dunmore’s highest hill. Anna’s first child, named Caterina after her mother-in-law, was born on August, 10, 1910. She died the same day. Her death certificate lists her age as five hours. Anna gave birth to four more children in the next few years: Domenic in 1912, Charles in 1914, Catherine (“Katy”) in 1915, and Vito in 1917. While Antonio, along with his father and brothers, worked long hours at the Erie Railroad Shops, Anna cared for her four young children in a two-bedroom apartment in Dunmore’s Hill Section.
Dunmore was made up largely of European immigrants. I
have jokingly said that it was one third Italian, one third Polish, one third Irish, and the rest Anglo. That was how it felt to me growing up there. The groups lived in different parts of town—
the Italians in the Hill Section, the Irish in the Patch, the Polish in an area on the north end of town, the Anglos and some Irish in the area surrounding Dunmore Corners, and the very wealthy Anglos in what was called the Hollywood Section because of the size and elegance of the homes. The three immigrant groups were all Catholic, and each had their own church: St. Anthony of Padua for the Italians, St. Mary’s for the Irish, and All Saints for the Polish. The Anglos went to the towering limestone Episcopal Church in the Hollywood Section or the simple white wooden Presbyterian Church near the Corners where my Girl Scout troop met.
Anna’s father-in-law, Domenico Mecca, was determined to bring his family together in one large homestead, including Anna, Antonio and their children. Unable to find a property in the Hill Section large enough for the house he envisioned, Domenico put down our family’s Italian roots in the Anglo/Irish neighborhood near Dunmore Corners. The property was located at the intersection of Drinker Street, the town’s main thoroughfare, and Reilly Street, a one-block-long street that sloped uphill to All Saints, the Polish Catholic Church, and the beginning of the Polish section. We lived at Dunmore’s ethnic epicenter. I’ve been told that it was a scandal when my great-grandfather built the house there. Other Italians warned him that he would face backlash from his new neighbors by moving to that area. Despite the warnings, Domenico, together with his four sons, built the house at 401 East Drinker Street.
Anna was twenty-seven when she moved into 401 with her husband, mother- and father-in-law, four children, and Antonio’s three brothers and two sisters. Even though she was probably happy to move from the cramped apartment, it must have been daunting to suddenly be surrounded by a hoard of in-laws. During their second year in the house, both Anna and her mother-in-law,
Catarina, fell ill with the Spanish Flu, a worldwide pandemic that killed 50 million people worldwide and 675,000 in the United States. Anna was pregnant when she contracted the flu. Despite her delicate frame and the ravages of the flu, she was able to survive the exertions of labor and gave birth on October 14, 1918, to a baby girl whom she named Maria, after her own mother. Her previous child, Vito, had been named after her father. Perhaps she was hoping to keep herself from disappearing into her husband’s clan in the one small way she could.
Five days later, little Maria died. Her death certificate states the cause of death as “influenza contracted in utero.” She was buried the same day. It is unlikely that Anna was well enough to attend the burial. I imagine her feverish and alone in the big house after the family left to put her baby girl in the ground. As the swaddled body of the infant was lowered into the dirt, perhaps Anna cradled her own still-swollen stomach, imagining Maria safe in her womb. Maybe she felt herself melting into the emptiness of the house—in her fever dreams, the emptiness came inside her and stole her child, leaving her hollow. She probably wanted to stay in bed until the house consumed her as well, but as the fever and aches of the flu subsided, she knew she had to rouse herself to care for her young children.
Eight days after the baby’s death, Anna’s mother-in-law, Catarina Mecca, older and weaker than Anna, succumbed to the flu. Upon her death, the primary responsibility for caring for the household, and the entire Mecca clan, fell to Anna. It was a responsibility she shouldered grudgingly for decades to come.
Over the next six years, Anna would bear and bury more children. In September 1919, a year after Maria’s death, Aunt Carmella was born. In March 1920, three-year-old Vito died. His death certificate states the primary cause of death as meningitis and the secondary cause of death as “La Grippe,” another name
for the Spanish Flu. In October 1921, my father, Thomas, was born. Three years later, in 1924, Anna gave birth to her last child. He was named Vito, like his brother before him. It was common for Italian families to give children the same name as a deceased sibling. Anna again had a child who bore her father’s name. The second Vito was known as “Little Willie.” He was born with Erb’s palsy, a condition which causes paralysis, loss of sensation, and atrophy in the arms. It is often caused when an infant’s neck is stretched to the side during a difficult delivery. Little Willie died in 1927 of meningitis, like his brother and namesake before him, at the age of two-and-and-half.
So much life and so much death. I think of the grim face of the schoolgirl in the photo. Maybe she was staring into her own future, a future that had been sealed the moment she was born. Maybe she knew that the joys would be fleeting. That there would be so little she could control. Not whom she would marry. Not how many children would grow in her womb, not how many would die.
While Antonio went out into the world to work and spent countless hours in his cellar workshop or outside in the yard, Anna spent most of her time in the kitchen. The kitchen was the central room on the first floor and all the other rooms spoked out from there: bathroom, pantry, living room, cellar, master bedroom, and a second bedroom. Each room had a dark paneled wooden door set into a dark wood frame. Every inch was coated with layer upon layer of varnish. Bead board wainscoting of the same dark wood extended halfway up the walls. I wonder if the vertical stripes of the bead board felt like prison bars to young Anna.
Even with all the dark wood, the kitchen seemed spacious. Black-and-white asphalt tiles in a checkerboard pattern on the floor accentuated the open space, which was furnished only with
an icebox, a wooden table and chairs, and a coal stove. Storage and workspace for the kitchen were in a narrow pantry. One wall was lined with painted wood cabinets above a long counter. Under the counter were bins for flour, sugar, pasta, potatoes, and other staples. On the opposite wall was a double porcelain sink surrounded by more cabinets.
There was one other item in the kitchen: a low chair with wooden legs and arms, its seat and back cushions covered in maroon vinyl trying to look like leather. The chair was tucked into the small space between the bathroom door and the outside wall, pushed up against the low radiator under the window. Antonio had topped the radiator with a wide wood plank to make a shelf. I remember seeing Grandma many times sitting in that chair, her elbow resting on the wooden shelf as she stared out the window. This was also the chair where Grandma said her rosary. She would clutch the string of black beads with both hands, leaving one bead exposed between her thumbs. Her lips moved, but no sound came out. At regular intervals, one thumb reached for the center bead and deftly shifted the string to the right. At the beginning and end of her prayers, she used both hands to raise the cross to her lips. Tommy and I knew not to disturb Grandma when she was saying the rosary. We could talk with Aunt Carmella, maybe even play Steal the Deck, but there was no singing or dancing, two of the things we most enjoyed doing with Aunt Carmella, during this time. I didn’t want to stare, but I liked to watch Grandma when she was saying the rosary. Her face was relaxed, even serene, with no trace of the scowl she often wore. It was like she pulled a curtain around herself and disappeared into a world of her own. She seemed happier when she escaped
the here-and-now of her life.
I wonder how many times, when the children were young and she bore on her shoulders the responsibility for the care of
her husband’s large family, Anna had been able to sit, even for a moment, in the chair by the window. I wonder if she ever had time to say the rosary in peace, if she was ever able to escape the life she had never chosen for herself. After Grandma died, Aunt Carmella, who was widowed young and had no children, took up this same post, her dime store romance novels, books of crossword puzzles, and an array of pens arranged neatly on the worn shelf. She did not need a string of beads for her escape.
Anna’s chores were many. She had to stoke the stove with coal, cook breakfast and dinner, and pack lunches for the men before they left for the Erie Shops. She washed clothes and linens by hand, swept floors with a straw broom, and periodically dragged the carpets out to the clothesline and beat them with a paddle. Antonio’s sisters, who were ten and fifteen when the family moved into 401, helped with some of the chores after school. Later, Anna’s daughter, Katy, helped out as well. Katy loved to clean and rejected her baby sister Carmella’s help because she clearly had no interest in housework and didn’t do it right. Anna probably had no interest in housework either, but she had no choice.
Several of Anna’s chores had to be done in the cellar. In a back corner of the low-ceilinged cellar, she filled the black soapstone utility sink with hot water and used a wooden washboard to scrub the family’s dirty clothes and linens. She scraped a rough rectangle of whitish soap back and forth against the fabric to create a lather, then with both hands rubbed each piece against the ridges of galvanized steel as she leaned her full body into the sink. It is no wonder so many sheets and towels in Grandma’s house were worn and threadbare.
Later, in the 1940s, Antonio was able to purchase a Maytag automatic ringer washer. The gleaming white cylinder that held the wash tub stood several inches off the ground on metal legs.
The round lid looked like a garbage can lid, but it too was gleaming white. Grandma was still using this washer thirty years later. I loved to help Grandma and Aunt Carmella with their laundry because the equipment was so much more interesting than the automatic washer and dryer my mother used. When the washer in the cellar was in operation Grandma and Aunt Carmella never let me to get too close. They seemed a bit afraid of the loud noises and rhythmic vibrations created by the machine, and I got the sense that they feared this porcelain monster could attack us at any time. At the top, along the back of the tub, was the wringer: two brown rubber rollers encased in a porcelain frame.
Once the machine stopped agitating and the lid was removed, Grandma pulled out one article of clothing at a time and carefully held them up to the rollers while Aunt Carmella pushed the red button that jolted the wringer into action. The spinning rollers seized the cloth in their grip, squeezing out the excess water and spitting out a flatter, dryer version into Aunt Carmella’s waiting hands. When I got a bit older, Aunt Carmella let me do the catching, though she grabbed the first tail of cloth to come through so I would not get my fingers anywhere near the rollers. The flattened garments always reminded me of poor Wylie
E. Coyote after he had been run over by the Road Runner.
When the oval wicker laundry basket was filled with pancaked clothing, Aunt Carmella hauled the basket over to the clothes lines which hung between the furnace and the coal bin. A cloth pouch full of wooden clothes pins hung from the line and Aunt Carmella put a few in her mouth before grabbing the first piece to hang. My job was to keep feeding her the clothes pins as she worked her way along the line, prodding the basket in front of her with her foot. When the sun was shining, the basket was carried outside, and the laundry hung on the clothes lines Grandpa had strung between two sturdy poles. Many days in the
winter, we had to pull frozen towels and sheets, stiff as boards, off the line and fold them until they cracked to get them into the basket.
My favorite story about Grandma begins at the cellar clothesline. It is known in the family as “The Rag Story.” When Carmella and Katy were young teens in the 1930s, they and their mother used layers of absorbent cloth to create “rags” thick enough to absorb their monthly menstrual flow. This is where the phrase “on the rag” comes from. They used pins to attach the rags to their undergarments. After each use, they had to wash the rags so they could be used again. These were hung on the cellar clothes lines to dry, even in good weather. Antonio’s younger brother Andrew, a bachelor, was one of the extended Mecca family members living in the house at the time. He was known to be mean, selfish, and ungrateful. One day, having just about had it with Andrew, Anna warned him to leave the rags drying in the cellar alone, knowing that he would, out of pure spite, do just the opposite. When Andrew came prancing back upstairs to the kitchen, smothering his face defiantly in a stiff rag, Anna and her daughters doubled over with laughter. Anna had had her revenge. It was small but sweet.
Unlike many Italians at the time, the Meccas did not have
their kitchen in the basement. But at the end of Grandpa’s workbench, next to the anvil, was an old gas stove. It was a beautiful object, its white surface decorated with painted roses and green leaves, chrome trim on the oven door and the long curvy handles of the burner controls, and a back panel with a scalloped shelf edged in red for keeping things warm.
Anna used this stove for canning the vegetables and fruits Antonio grew in his garden. Domenico had purchased two lots when he bought the property; one entire lot was used for gardening. This meant bushels of tomatoes, peppers, onions,
eggplant, peaches, apples, and more. The food was stored in a narrow space along the front of the house we called “the little cellar.” The air inside the little cellar was cool and the dirt floor gave off a smell of wet soil. Along the walls on either side of a narrow walk space were wooden bins of various sizes. The bins were stocked with dirt-covered potatoes, garlic bulbs, and a variety of onions. Above the bins were shelves lined with green- tinted Ball jars filled the tomatoes, peaches, applesauce, jelly, peppers, eggplant, and pickles that Anna had peeled, sliced, cooked, and canned.
It was also on the cellar stove that Anna made sauce from the canned tomatoes. The family could not afford to eat meat very often, but pasta was daily fare, sometimes augmented with beans for added protein. This dish, called pasta fagioli, remained one of my father’s favorites his whole life. Bread was another staple and Anna made several loaves every day.
The work never stopped, not even when Anna’s belly swelled with one baby after another. She did what she had to do to feed the extended family living at 401, usually numbering ten or more. Often she worked alone.
Grandpa never came up behind Grandma while she was at the stove to give her a hug, as I had seen my dad do many times to my mother. He never took her to a restaurant. He never surprised her with flowers or gifts. He didn’t lavish praise on her cooking or notice the small changes she made in the house. Not that she would have expected these things. Their worlds and lives were separate as she knew they would be. She had no girlhood dreams of romance. She may have hoped for tenderness from her husband, but in her brief courtship with Antonio, this hope probably faded. He was a good man, she knew, but he seemed as hard and gruff as his stocky body, rough hands, and the harsh
stubble on his face. Whatever softness Anna once had eroded over their years together.
There is a picture of Grandma and Grandpa from their fiftieth wedding anniversary taken at the party the family held in Uncle Dom and Aunt Florence’s painted basement. They stand stiffly next to one another, not touching. Neither are smiling. The Italian version of “American Gothic.”
By the time I knew her, Grandma seemed to hate everything, especially cooking. She was the only Italian grandmother I knew who didn’t cook. Her sisters were the typical Italian grandmothers, their kitchens always steamy with pots of simmering sauce. I don’t remember ever having a large family meal in Grandma and Grandpa’s kitchen. My mother learned how to cook Italian food from Grandma’s youngest sister, Aunt Ang, and our own kitchen upstairs often swelled with relatives for holiday meals.
When it was just Grandma and Aunt Carmella living downstairs, they sometimes invited me to stay for dinner after an afternoon playing with Aunt Carmella. My mother made me politely decline two times before I was allowed to accept on the third offer. The meals were simple, with barely enough food for the two of them. The first time they served me spaghetti, I was shocked when Grandma opened a jar of Ragu, something neither my mother nor any of our Italian relatives would be caught dead doing. I imagine that when her family and the garden shrank, Grandma was only too happy to retire the cellar stove and buy sauce and peaches in jars at the grocery store. She had done enough canning and cooking for a lifetime.
Though I rarely appreciated it while she was alive, I think
there was an oft-hidden essence in Grandma, a sweetness, a tenderness, even a sassiness, that may have dissipated over the years but did not disappear. I see it in the Rag Story, in the beauty
of the turquoise earrings, in the glint in her eye when she poured Grandpa’s whiskey, and especially in the joy she found in the Seven Sisters.
I first learned about the Seven Sisters on a summer day when Tommy was pushing me on the wooden chair swing Grandpa had built in the side yard. Grandma suddenly appeared with an empty bushel basket in one hand and garden shears in the other. Grandma rarely ventured any further outside the house than the back porch glider, so I jumped off the swing to see what she was doing. Grandma dropped the basket in front of the wall of roses at the edge of the yard. Grandpa had forged a makeshift trellis out of plumbing pipe and planted the roses years before. As the vines grew, the trellis disappeared behind the meandering branches and spreading leaves. I stood quietly at Grandma’s elbow as she began clipping away at the branches. She would scan a section of vines, then remove those that were bare and withered and drop them into the basket.
“What are you doing, Grandma?” I finally dared to ask. I was
a little afraid of Grandma. She turned quickly, startled.
“Oh, Debbie,” she said sweetly, smiling. “I didn’t know you were there.” I rarely saw Grandma smile. “I’m taking care of my roses. These are the Seven Sisters,” she said proudly. “Just like me and my sisters. The Seven Sisters.” She reached out to put her arm around my shoulder and pull me closer. “Look!” she said, bending a branch with a cluster of delicate pink flowers towards us. Then pointing one by one at the tiny buds, she counted, “One, two, three, four, five, six, seven. “See!” she proclaimed triumphantly, “Seven!”
After that, I paid more attention to the rose wall, often counting the clusters to confirm that, indeed, they each had seven roses. I watched whenever Grandma lovingly pruned the bushes back to healthy branches. Sometimes she let me help her look for
the places that needed pruning or pick out the most beautiful clusters to cut for a bouquet. I loved how Grandma loved those roses.
I wonder now if Grandpa chose the Seven Sisters roses to please Grandma. Perhaps this was his small way to show he cared for her. Was Grandma surprised the first year they bloomed? What memories of her childhood and her younger sisters overcame her as she nursed the roses year after year?
✤ ✤ ✤
I picture Grandma as I knew her – her yellow-gray hair pulled back in a bun, wearing a black cotton dress, heavy cotton stockings, and black lace-up old lady shoes, gazing out the window from her maroon chair by the radiator, sipping black coffee with plenty of sugar, the only color the two dots of turquoise on her ears. But now, superimposed on that image, is one of a young woman thrust into the middle of her husband’s large family and into a role she neither desired nor felt prepared for. My heart aches for the young wife drowning in household chores and the young mother burying child after child, for the oldest rose of the seven sisters.
I remember that first night in her bed, and realize that once I listened, Grandma tried to tell me who she was.
I can feel the scratchy threads of the worn gray and pink floral rug in Aunt Carmella’s room digging into my bare feet as I stare out the window over the open lid of Aunt Carmella’s cedar chest. Aunt Carmella’s room is at the front corner of our house, with two windows behind the trunk facing the busy main street and one window opening onto the side street. I tip my head from side to side, following the track of Aunt Carmella’s pointing finger. I need to be sure of the exact spot.
It is one of the days when Aunt Carmella has given in to my pleading to PLEASE go through her cedar chest with her. It is where she keeps all her treasures, and I love nothing more than hearing her tell the story behind each one. Today, in a small shoebox full of photos, we come across a picture of a boyish Uncle Charlie in his World War I Navy uniform. Charlie was one of Grandpa’s brothers, my great-uncle.
Domenico Mecca, Grandpa and Uncle Charlie’s father, had immigrated to Dunmore, a small coal-mining town in Northeastern Pennsylvania, from the southern Italian village of Avigliano in 1902 at the age of forty, leaving his wife and children behind. Four years later, he had saved enough money to pay for his family’s passage to America. In 1906, Domenico’s wife
Catarina and their five children joined him in Dunmore, including my eighteen-year-old grandfather, Antonio. The family first settled in Dunmore’s Hill Section, where almost all the Italian immigrants lived. In 1917, Domenico completed construction of the house at 401 East Drinker Street. It is the Mecca family homestead, known simply as 401. It is the house where my father was born in 1921 and lived until he died. It is the house where I was born in 1958 and spent my childhood.
I always believed that 401 contained more doors than any other house of its size. My great-grandfather had purposely designed the house with many doors, some at unexpectedly odd angles, so that the layout of the living space could be reconfigured to accommodate the growing and changing extended family that would live there. The upstairs room where Uncle Charlie lived as a bachelor in the 1920s was my father’s bachelor room in the 1940s. In the 1970s, it was our TV room. The same room where I crawled into bed with my mother in the morning after Dad left for work was the room where Aunt Carmella and Aunt Katy buttoned up their black leather shoes and yanked at the cotton stockings that always seemed to pool at their ankles.
I am probably about ten years old the day Aunt Carmella and I find the old picture of Uncle Charlie in his World War I uniform in her trunk. He had died a few years earlier at the age of sixty- seven. I knew him, but only as an old man; Aunt Carmella grew up with him in this house. He was her favorite uncle when she was a little girl. Aunt Carmella holds the photo carefully by one corner as she runs her finger over Uncle Charlie’s youthful face. I want to reach for the picture but wait until she looks up.
“Oh, I loved Uncle Charlie,” she says, as she hands me the photo.
“Was he in the war?” I ask.
“He went to training camp, but the war was over before he had to go overseas.” She pauses and turns to look out the window. “That’s what is so sad.”
“What do you mean? I thought he was OK.”
“Oh, not Uncle Charlie. My grandmother, your great- grandmother Mecca, Charlie’s mother.” Her eyes get that look they always get when she is about to tell a story, like she is rewinding a reel in her head. I wait.
“I never knew my Grandma Mecca,” she continues. “She died a year before I was born.” Aunt Carmella lets her lids close slowly, takes a breath, then looks me in the eye and continues, “of a broken heart.” Circling her head around the room as if she is looking for a ghost, she adds, “This was her room.”
Then Aunt Carmella tells me the story. Uncle Charlie was drafted in June 1918, a few months after he turned twenty-one. He went to boot camp, then was home for a few days before he had to report to a Naval base in Cape May, New Jersey. From there, he would be shipped overseas. Aunt Carmella and I stare at the photo in her hand. On October 22, 1918, he put on his Navy-blue service uniform, the one he is wearing in the picture, said goodbye to his mother, and went out to get the streetcar to Lackawanna Station in Scranton.
Aunt Carmella points out the window towards the grassy triangle separating Drinker and Harper Streets. “See that triangle?” she asks.
“Yes.”
“Well, that used to be a streetcar stop. Streetcars used to go up and down Drinker Street, all the way to downtown Scranton. You could get anywhere on the streetcar. Scranton was one of the first cities to have all electric streetcars. We were famous!”
I look out at the busy street and wonder what it would have been like to clank along on silver tracks in the middle of Drinker Street. Dad told me how he and his boyhood buddies used to hop
on the backs of the cars to hitch a free ride. The grimy and smelly COLTS buses that stop in front of our house now could not compare to my romantic vision of a streetcar.
“Well, Uncle Charlie walked out the front door and down to the streetcar stop. Grandma Mecca could see him from this window. She stood here watching him until he climbed up into the streetcar.” She turns to look at the bed behind us. “Then she lay down in that bed and never got up again. She died five days later.”
I peer over the top of the open trunk, trying to lock my eyes on the place on the island where the streetcar stop might have been. I want to stand where Great-Grandma Mecca stood as she looked out on the world for the last time. I know now that Great- Grandma Mecca most likely died of the Spanish flu. But stories, especially family stories, are their own truth. In our family’s story, she died of a broken heart.
I squint into the afternoon sun, staring at the crooked telephone pole that stands just about where Uncle Charlie stood as he waited anxiously for the streetcar, feeling his mother’s eyes burning into him but not daring to look back. As I recreate her gaze, I wonder how long she stood in this exact spot, watching the streetcar, and her son, disappear down Drinker Street.
Aunt Carmella puts her arm around me, but I do not turn to look at her. I want to know what if feels like when your heart breaks.
✤ ✤ ✤
Great-Uncle Charlie and Great-Grandma Mecca are just two characters in the storied history of this house. I am another. So many Meccas superimposed upon one another, layer upon layer, in this space.
Growing up in this house, every space I entered, every wall and window and banister I touched, connected me to those who
had come before. Every door in this house of many doors whispered secrets and I was compelled to listen. Relatives who had long since moved on from this house were still here in the worn spots on the front porch steps and the indentation in the wall left by a doorknob after an angry slam. They were in the knicks in the porcelain sink and the stains in the clawfoot tub. They were in the creaks in the floors and the frayed ropes in the double-hung windows.
Behind every door in this house of many doors was a story, a relative known or unknown, a piece of my history.
There is another house three miles away in the city of Scranton. It was built by the Hudson Coal Company and rented to miners’ families. My mother’s father had immigrated from Germany in 1923. Her mother followed in 1925. They lived first in Western Pennsylvania, where my mother was born in 1926, then moved to a house at 601 Mary Street in Scranton in 1932. It was my mother’s home until she married my father in 1954 and moved to 401. The four-room house where my mother grew up was barely big enough for the family, which consisted of my grandparents, my mother, and her two siblings. I never saw the house on Mary Street, never even drove by it, while my mother was alive. But its stories are no less real than Great-Grandma Mecca’s broken heart.
Two houses. Two nationalities. Two cultures. Two religions.
Two families.
I want to honor the hopes and dreams, the work and the play, the hardships and the laughter, the tragedies and the triumphs of the people in those two families. Some of them I have known in life, some only in story, some through the mystery of the ties that bind us across generations. Traveling from their homelands of Italy and Germany at the beginning of the 20th century, my refugee ancestors made their way to America with
little more than hope. I am the beneficiary of that hope. Theirs are the stories of America; but they are above all their stories— unique and precious, holding truths we need to remember, holding the seeds of who we have become as a family and as a country.
This book is the result of my journey to learn their stories. As I opened one door after another, I found more than I had imagined. People I thought I knew came to life in new ways. People I never knew took shape. They revealed themselves to me and allowed me to step into their shoes. Truths were revealed and idols toppled. The human beings who stand in their place are even more worthy of awe. In their imperfections and secrets is their humanity, grander than any idol.