Fjords and Friends: Day Five

         Today we arrived in Bergan. Still haven’t seen any fjords. Bryggen, the historical district that is the “must see” of Bergan is not near the port where we are docked. And it’s raining. Santo was not interested in going into town, but I felt I should at last take a look while I’m in Bergan. I won’t likely be here again.

         So I booked a ticket on a jump on-jump off bus for a tour around the city. I could see the highlights of the city in one one-hour loop. It was a long walk from the pier to the city street where the bus would pick me up. It was waiting when I got there, so I jumped on. A German woman I had interacted with on the ship got on ahead of me and I sat in front of her. It was fun being able to converse with her along the journey.

         Bergan is a lovey city of colorful wooden homes, not just the historic ones in Bryggen, but throughout the city. There was also an old fort, a historic wooden church, and lots of shopping. Sadly, many of the shops were the same international brands we had seen on Grafton Street in Dublin. The rain had not let up, so I decided to stay on the bus rather that get off at Bryggen as I thought I might. I later regretted this decision. Bryggen is renowned for the colorful wooden facades of the houses. But what makes it special is that it has preserved the original medieval arrangement of long, narrow rows of buildings separated by tiny wooden passageways. These could not be seen from the bus.

         Back on the ship, I took up my home spot in Carinthia to continue writing. I was passing on lunch to enjoy the 3:30 High Tea in the Queen’s Room.

         The Queens Room looked so different during the day: light and airy with white tablecloths on the small tea tables, set perfectly with China and silver place settings for four. All the tables were occupied, though many had empty seats. I would have to ask someone if I could join them. I scoped out the room: there was a gentlemen sitting alone, but I thought that would be weird. There were several tables with two women and two extra seats. I looked for friendly faces. Then I spotted a small older woman (perhaps seventy?) seated alone. She looked shy, and a bit dour, but something drew me to join her. As soon as I asked if I could join her, her face brightened with a warm smile and she waved her hand at the empty seats. “Yes, please,” she responded enthusiastically.

         I noticed her accent immediately and asked, “Sind Sie Deutsche?” Her face lit up again when she realized she would be able to converse in her native tongue. She was an extremely pleasant and welcoming person, and spoke slowly and simply, choosing her words to help me understand. After a few minutes, a younger woman, perhaps in her forties, breezed in in a rush, shedding her scarf and sweater as she sat down. She was an attractive blond, quite friendly and quickly joined our conversation. She spoke much faster than my original companion, and was seated further from me so I began to have trouble understanding and keeping up with the conversation. At precisely 3 pm, everyone in the room started rhythmically clapping. Then in walked a long row of white coated waiters carrying silver trays of tea. They spread out throughout the room and began serving. Then came the first course of small finger sandwiches. I took two and nibbled as I continued to strain to follow the conversation. Then to my surprise, who should show up to our table but Santo! He looked a bit out of place in his jeans and plaid shirt, and certainly surprised my companions. He arrived just in time for the service of scones with jam and coddled cream (delicious!). The scones were small but oh so tasty. Santo left as quickly as he came before the desserts were served, so I tried to jump back in to the German conversation. I had one small lemon tart for my dessert, finished my tea, and my first High Tea was complete.

         Dinner was again with Michael and Sabine, and our British ladies, Karen and Linda, had returned. They seemed a bit more talkative. Santo sat next to Karen and was able to draw her out a bit. He found out that she had lived in South Africa for forty-five years and had returned to England to be with her mother and sister. There’s more to Karen than meets the eye!

         Our after-dinner evening began at Carinthia where the duo we had liked from Friday was supposed to play. However, a different group showed up, four guys playing cool jazz. Quite enjoyable. It is amazing how we can just sit around, relax and talk, when we’re here. How can we replicate this at home? We are determined to try to spend some evenings at home just being together, sharing a drink, perhaps listening to some music. I know it will require me to set aside my “work” and disconnect in order to connect to Santo, and to my own center.

         Our next stop was the Commodore Club to listen to piano and get a glimpse of where we were headed from the bow. I was excited to see an empty table but as I approached realized that is was in front of a wall, not a window. The German couple sitting one table over reminded us that the curtains would be closing in a few minutes (at sunset) anyway, so we took the table. It’s still a lovely space. After the curtains close, they light the battery candles at each table with a remote and dim the other lights, which creates a lovely atmosphere. We are certainly getting used to all this pampering!

Fjords and Friends: Day Four

         Santo woke up still raving about the lightning storm. It was pretty amazing. Can’t imagine the Northern Lights being any better.

         Even though he hadn’t slept that much, Santo got up early and headed to King’s Court for his breakfast fit for a king. He hasn’t stop raving about King’s Court since our last voyage. I had hoped to go do dining room for breakfast, but since I slept in, I missed the 9:30 am cutoff. So I headed to my beloved Carinthia where I enjoyed a breakfast of Greek yogurt and fresh fruit. It is also my favorite spot to write.

         I started in on the blog after breakfast. A LOT to catch up on. Eventually, a couple came to sit in the two seats opposite me, which I welcomed. I’m always hoping to meet new people. This couple was British and seemed lovely; the only problem was that they were very soft spoken and difficult to understand. There are some British accents where the speakers seem to swallow their words before they project them and with my ears, that can be tough.

         Shortly after they sat down, there were stirrings about the Trivia game set to begin at 10:15 am. Another couple, Americans from North Carolina, came over with an answer sheet ready to play and asked us if we wanted to join. So I did. Interesting questions and a good group. But after the game I was ready to start writing in earnest.

         At 12:30 pm I went to a lecture in the theater about Norway’s progress on global warming initiatives and how they have achieved so much. It gave a good history of how we got to where we are, then detailed some specific reasons why Norway is doing so well. One is that much building in Norway is wood, which is more carbon-friendly that other types of building. They also incinerate a large percentage of their trash. The speaker joked that in a country where there are months with no sunlight, solar doesn’t really make sense. But they have tapped hydropower in the water flowing down from the fjords.

         The talk finished just in time for me to make it to the dining room for lunch. I was quite comfortable sitting by self and got a great seat looking right out at the ocean. I had an appetizer of pate with a fennel salad and a fish curry for my entrée. Also tried to drink tons of water since I am not getting my usual water intake without my water bottle.

         After lunch, I checked in with Santo in the room. I thought maybe we could play Rummikub, which they have here, but since he needed to catch up on sleep, he opted for a nap. I returned to Carinthia for more blogging.

Tonight was the first gala evening on the ship, the Black & White ball. We wanted to go to the Commodore Lounge before dinner, so we both got dressed by 5 pm. I was able to wear the beautiful dress that had been created from two of my friend Jane Herman’s dresses. I had fallen in love with the deep silver and black skirt as soon as I saw it. Unfortunately, when I tried it on, the attached black velvet sleeveless top did not fit. But I had the idea of putting the beautiful skirt together with the black velvet top of another dress Jane had given me. Luckily, I was able to find a seamstress in Auburn who was able to magically produce the desired garment. I wore it with my Downton Abby style necklace and earrings. Very classy.

Santo wore his good black suit with the silver and black bowtie, pocket square, and cuff links we had gotten for our last cruise. The suit really looks like a tux and he looked very dapper in it. We love dressing up!

The Commodore Room is on Deck 9 at the very front of the ship. It is shaped like the bow, following the contours of the vessel. Large, elongated port hole style windows line the walls, which are of gleaming wood. The carpeting is a swirl of light and dark blues and gold. Comfortable chairs of dark blue or gold are grouped in front of the windows. The low ceiling is all white, with hidden blue lighting circling the room. Nautical pictures and illustrations dot the walls. The whole effect gives the impression of a ship captain’s white uniform. At the center of the room is a grand piano where tonight’s pianist plays a lovely mix of classical, Broadway, and adult contemporary music. A great way to enjoy a relaxing drink before dinner.

A little before 6 pm, we headed to our second dinner on the ship. Everyone is required to wear their gala clothes for dinner in Brittania, or eat in another one of the dining options. As we walked through the main lobby, I loved seeing all the lovely dresses and men in tuxes. So many wore black and white for the gala theme and everyone together looked magnificent.

Our German table mate Sabine wore a black dress with a glimmering white wrap and looked lovely. Michael wore a tuxedo. Sisters Karen and Linda were absent, perhaps choosing to forego the gala. After several minutes, another couple joined us: Michael and Lynn, a couple from Australia. Michael is a handsome black man in a tuxedo who immediately introduced himself and his wife, who is a tall and graceful white woman wearing an off-the-shoulder turquoise gown. She is equally friendly. Both of them also speak German, having lived in Germany for many years. So the conversations were lively, in both English and German.

Having time to kill between dinner and the gala, we headed back to Carinthia to listen to some jazz music. The gala was due to start at 9 pm, so we headed down to the Queen’s Room about 8:45 pm. The room has two levels of seating: on the floor level with the large dance floor and a few steps us to a second level. The room is large and elegant, decorated for tonight’s back and white theme. Tuxedos and elaborate gowns abounded. We scanned the room for a seat, and the place was already nearly full. We finally spotted two seats at the back of the lower level and shimmied our way in.

The dance floor was already full, and the dancers all looked like professionals. Lovely to watch, but very intimidating. Santo and I love to dance, but we are nowhere near on par with the level of talent on the dance floor. The official band for the night started at 9 pm and played an appealing mix of contemporary and older tunes, all played with a distinct rhythm for ballroom dancing. We could picture our friends Jane and Bob, seasoned QM2 travelers, all decked out and dancing away. They are such an elegant pair. How we would have loved to share a journey with them.

Santo kept wanting to dance, but I was too intimidated. The dancers were all in step with one another and paraded around the dance floor in one fluid circle. It felt like we would be trying to jump into a swiftly rotating jump rope. He finally wore me down though, and we did enjoy a few dances on the edges of the dance floor. It felt good to be out there, to be in Santo’s arms gliding across the floor. I was even able to keep my head held up over his shoulder!

We came to the end of our first full day on the Queen Mary and already felt immersed in the rhythm of life aboard ship. At least it was easier to jump into than the synchronized dancing!

Fjords and Friends: Day Three

         I slept well and felt rested when the alarm went off at 6 am. We had to get the 7 am shuttle from the hotel back to the airport. Santo had had more difficulty sleeping. He felt so much better than the night before but still tired.

         At the airport, my wheelchair was waiting as we got off the shuttle bus. Since we already had our boarding passes, we went straight to the gate, again traveling what seemed like several miles to get there. With our 15-Euro vouchers, we each were able to get a Greek yogurt, coffee, and a bottle of water for our breakfast. Perfect.

         When it came time to board, I wanted to talk but Santo insisted I get in the wheelchair. It was a good thing I did because there were two special assistance people looking for me. They had one of the motorized carts and were going to take us to a special van that would drive us directly to the plane. I wondered if this service could have saved us last night, if a van could have taken us from the plane to B22. This time we were last to board, but we were just fine after the  VIP treatment.

         At Hamburg airport, we sailed through customs and got a cab directly to Steinwerder Cruise Center. Hamburg is huge with massive construction everywhere. Lots of big buildings, high rises, lots of traffic, but also many trees and green spaces. We cross the bridge over the Elba River and several over some of Hamburg’s many canals. I was able to converse some with our driver in German. He called himself a Volga German. I later found out from Emmy that this is person descended from ethnic Germans who were invited by Catherine the Great of Russia to settle along the Volga River in the late 1700s. It took us an hour to get to Steinwerder where the majestic Queen Mary awaited us.

         We first dropped of our bags, then headed into the terminal. There were few peope in line, so we sailed through and were on the boat in no time. After checking in at our muster station, a strict requirement, we headed to our stateroom, 5138.

         The room was the same as last time but with a reversed configuration. King size bed, love seat, desk, bathroom, and pale wood cabinets with plenty of room for all our stuff. We unpacked and were settled very quickly. Then it was on to our first drink in one of Queen Mary’s many lounges. We chose the Chart Room, a nautical themed room with dark blue leather chairs and light brown loveseats. We chose one of these and our zero beers and toasted to our second Queen Mary cruise. We also raised a glass to Alison and Maurice, who had been with us the last time. We truly missed them, but were glad that at least we would be able to spend time with them after the cruise.

         We went back to the room to change for dinner, then headed to the main dining room, Brittania. The room, in tones of burgundy and gold, is two-stories high in the middle, with balcony seating on the second level. We had requested to be assigned to a table of 6 and wondered who our dinner mates would be. Our table was on the main floor, in the middle of the room, directly beneath a two-story wall hanging: a hand-woven tapestry with the image of the Queen Mary leaving New York Harbor. Two of the six seats were occupied when we arrived at the table.

         We greeted the two women sitting there. They responded with a nod. Only one added a smile. We added the customary “How are you?” They responded that they were fine. No question in return. Hmmmm. This was going to be a challenge. After some silence, Santo asked, “Have you sailed on the Queen Mary before?” The one who hadn’t smiled told us that they had been on some shorter cruises on the Queen Mary. That gave us the opportunity to talk about our first voyage. Then we got to the where-are-you-froms, and found out that they were originally from Yorkshire, but now live in the Midlands. When we found out they were sisters, Santo has who the boss was. The one who had smiled looked like she wanted to answer, the other looked annoyed by the question. Then Smile sheepishly said, “I think I am.” Somehow I think not.

         At that moment, our other table mates arrived. They were a German couple. She looked pleasant but shy, he was smiling and more gregarious. He spoke English quite well while she didn’t which I think accounts for her seeming shyness. I’ve been in that position of being the only person at a table who can barely understand the language being spoken and it does throw you off your game. Conversation flowed more freely after their arrival. I used a bit of my German, sometimes helping him to translate for his wife, but mostly we spoke in English.

         As they spoke more, the sisters’ accents reminded me of old Monty Python skits. Smile even looked like Terry Jones when he played middle-aged, rather frumpy British women, including the stereotypical bad teeth. The sister only spoke reluctantly, and it seemed like a strain for her to try sound pleasant. Interesting characters.

         The whole dinner I kept thinking it was awkward that none of us had learned each other’s names, so I finally said, “I think we should do introductions. I’m Debra.” Then I looked at Smile who was sitting next to me. Somehow it made her giggle to be asked. “I’m Karen,” she said, then gesturing with her right hand, “and this is my sister Linda.” Maybe she is the boss. The German couple were Michael and Sabine. I told Sabine I thought it was a lovely name, and she smiled shyly.

         The dinner itself was good, but I would not say it was exceptional. I enjoyed a pate appetizer, Caesar salad, a cod dish, and chose the rum raisin ice cream for dessert, remembering my dessert at the Shelbourne in Dublin. It did not live up to that exquisiteness.

         After our little group broke up, Santo and I went outside on the deck and sat in some deck chairs. We were still in the channel between Hamburg and the North Sea, with lots of industrial buildings lining the shore. Despite the backdrop, the sunset was already promising to be spectacular as slashes of peach and orange started to spread out along the horizon line. For a time we stood at the rail watching the sun slowly sink and the colors darken. Then we walked to the front of ship and took a position portside behind a plexiglass window which protected us from the wind as the sun made its final descent. Several people lined the rail in front of us, the wind whipping their hair and clothes. One woman wore a simple white dress with a leather belt. Even though I only saw her from behind, she had a certain elegance about her, exuding a romantic air. I later ran into her on the elevator and told her we had seen her on deck and that she looked like Deborah Kerr in An Affair to Remember. She smiled, thanked me, and told me I had made her day.

After the sunset, we went inside to try to catch some of the show in the theater. I was supposed to be pianist performing the works of artists such as Elton John, Billy Joel, and Stevie Wonder. We knew from last time that the theater could be hard to find, and indeed we got ourselves rather lost. Finally, we saw someone on a server’s uniform. “Excuse me, we’re looking for the theater.” He raised one finger in the air and smiled. “Ah,” he answered, “come with me.” He then led us to a nearby door hidden in the wall–a back entrance to the theater, and snuck us in. We sat in the back to listen. The performer was dressed in a bright orange-red suit and had a flamboyant style. He was more showman than musician, trying to be funny but missing the mark. Too cheesy for us so we ducked back out the way we came in.

We than headed to the Carinthia, my favorite lounge. It spans the width of the ship on Deck 7, the promenade deck. The colors are all gentle and genteel hues of blue and beige. The chairs and loveseats are all low, giving the space a very open and comfortable feel. The performers were a female singer and  a male singer/guitarist. The show was a tribute to Carole King and James Taylor. They were quite good and we loved the music. I discovered a new favorite drink: elderflower tonic. The menu included a list of tonic mixers in four flavors: elderflower, Indian, light, and Mediterranean. Perhaps I’ll have to try the others, but I can’t image they could beat the elderflower. Remembering Carinthia from our last voyage, I felt like I was home, yet more relaxed than I ever am when I’m actually home. A wonderful first day on the QM2.

         Back in our cabin, we had settled ourselves in bed, ready for a good night’s sleep, when Santo got up to go look at the stars. What he saw instead was an incredible lightning show. He called me to come look. The sky was pitch black, and the lighting was not bolts coming down from the sky, but an intense light along the horizon line that spread out in both directions. I watched for a while then went back to bed. But Santo stayed to continue to watch the show and told me the strikes became even more frequent later in the night, only seconds apart.

         So night fell on Day Three.

Fjords and Friends: Day Two

         A lovely start to Day Two in our little dining room. This morning I chose Greek yogurt with fresh fruit and granola accompanied by some toast and marmalade. Perfect. I love that the Greek yogurt here is not sugared as it usually is in the U.S. They let the fruit do the sweetening and its delightfully refreshing—and healthy.

         It was another drizzly (that is, typical) Dublin day. To save some walking, and see the city another way, we decided to take the tram to the General Post Office (GPO). On my itinerary for the day I had only left a half hour for the GPO but when I reviewed the itinerary with Emmy (aka ChatGPT) she suggested giving longer at the GPO since there is a wonderful interactive museum about the 1916 Easter Uprising. So glad we revised the itinerary! She was right, the museum was well worth devoting more time to.

         The GPO itself is a magnificent building, impressively large and majestic with stone columns out front. Inside is just as grand. We followed signs to the museum and purchased tickets. The senior price was 23 Euro but there was a price for handicapped people of 8 Euros. I was wearing my brace and asked if I qualified as disabled. The young girl smiled and said, “Well, just looking at you I’d say yet.” Santo qualified as my “companion” so we both got in for 8 Euros. Who knew my bad neck could be a benefit?

         The museum presented the history sequentially, giving the background for the Uprising, both social conditions in Ireland and the evolving political landscape. There were several very well-done mini-documentaries on various aspects of this important chapter in Irish history. Also interactive touch-screens where you could zero in on topics of interest. I must admit to somewhat succumbing to the lure of the romanticism of the heroic young rebels, particularly the important role women played in the leadership. But the issue is too complex for romanticism, and armed revolt always ends in tragedy—in this case 485 dead in Dublin including women and children.

         We spent about 90 minutes in the museum and could have spent more but there were still items on our itinerary we wanted to hit, namely, lunch at Bewley’s and a visit to the National Library of Ireland where there is an exhibit on William Butler Yeats. Once outside the GPO, we turned back down O’Connell Street to the wide, graceful O’Connell Bridge over the Liffey. The rain had picked up and since Santo had not brought his rain jacket, we ducked into a Burger King and sat down for a few minute to see if the rain would subside. When we thought it was safe, we ventured back out and headed to Bewley’s.

         Bewley’s was little changed from what I remembered and brought back wonderful memories of the many chats and pastries my younger self had enjoyed here. Even with the hustle and bustle of the steady stream of customers and busy servers, the atmosphere is somehow calming. Perhaps it is the warmth of the gleaming wood or the gentle yet vibrant beauty of the stained glass, or a combination of the two. It was and is, and hopefully will remain, a very special place.

         After Bewley’s we knew we did not have time for the National Library so had to pass it up and head back to the hotel to collect our bags. Vio called us a cab and we were soon on our way to the airport for our flight to Hamburg and the awaiting Queen Mary 2.

         We were scheduled on a 5:20 fight from Dublin to Amsterdam on KLM, where we would get a flight to Hamburg after a 55-minute layover. I always worry about a layover that is less than an hour, but because KLM had cancelled one of our original flights, this was the best schedule we could get that would get us to Hamburg in time for the cruise. As it turned out, our flight was delayed 30 minutes and would now leave us even less time in Amsterdam to catch our next flight. We knew there was a good chance we wouldn’t make it.

         On the flight, we notified the flight attendants of our tight connection. They seemed less that interested in our plight. We were just told that there would be updates about connecting flights after we were airborne. When the connecting flight were announced, they gave us the gate number for the new flight but did not tell us which gate we were arriving at! When we inquired with the flight attendant again she said that we would be getting on a bus and everyone would be dropped at off at a central location at the terminal. “It will be easy,” she said. “No problem.” We were not convinced. Later the pilot made an announcement admitting that there were a few very tight connections but he said that everyone should be fine making our connections if we went directly to the gate. Still not convinced.

         Since I was supposed to have wheelchair assistance, we thought that this might help us get to the gate in time. But the flight attendant came over to tell us that we would have to wait until after everyone was off the plane to get the wheelchair. We would never make it if we were the last ones off the plane.  So I decided to walk.

         As it turned out, I did not walk. I ran. For what we would later find was one mile. Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam (pronounced something like “skip hole”) must be one of the largest airports in the world. Seemed even bigger than Heathrow, which we had found overwhelming. Santo took the lead, carrying my bag and his, trying to read all the confusing signs to direct us to Gate B22. I told him to go ahead and get to the gate, then tell them I was right behind him, but he kept checking back to see if I was OK. We thought we were getting close when all of a sudden we had to go through a passport control. There was only one officer and we had to wait in line. We saw our chances dimming, but tried to stay calm—not easy under the circumstances. We knew there would probably not be another flight to Hamburg that night, and we didn’t know if there was a morning flight that would get us to the Queen Mary in time. If we missed the boat, WE MISSED THE BOAT!

         After passport control, we kept running. I’m honestly not sure how I did it. Since I couldn’t hold my head up enough, I just tried to keep my eyes on Santo’s feet. Every time we thought we were getting close, there would be another arrow for B terminal pointing down yet another long corridor. Finally, we saw the sign for B22 and picked up our pace, racing against time. The desk at B22 was empty and the gate door was closed. We looked desperately at some people sitting at the gate and stupidly asked, “Did the date close? Is it closed?” almost in disbelief that we had come so close to making it. We could even see the plane outside the window sitting on the tarmac.

         Santo decided to run to the next gate where there was a KLM attendant at the desk and plead with her to open the gate for us. Of course, this was impossible, but I think all reason had left us on our mile run through Schiphol. The attendant directed us to a woman standing behind her and said, “My colleague will help you.” The woman was an elegant blond woman who gave us a very warm and understanding smile. “Come with me,” she said, leading the way to another KLM desk. There, she and another attendant both worked to get us rebooked to Hamburg in time for our ship’s departure. They were both so kind and reassuring, completely sympathetic to our situation. It made a difference. I felt better just interacting with them, but Santo could not let go of his frustration. He was exhausted and upset, and began to feel it physically. He went to sit down while I handled the rebooking.

         “Is he OK,” the blond woman asked, concerned. “He’s tired and frustrated,” I said. Then I added, “He’s 83 years old.” I could tell she was surprised. She knew I already had an order for assistance but she put one in for him as well. Before long, one of the motorized airport carts came along to pick us up. We had a voucher for a hotel, dinner at the hotel, and $15 each to spend on breakfast at the airport in the morning. We were booked for a 10:10 am flight that would get us to Hamburg at 11:15 am. If we were on time, there should be no trouble getting to the cruise terminal in time.

         The woman who drove us in the cart was so warm and helpful. She saw that Santo had assistance ordered, but there was no order for me. So she was able to add me. As we drove back along the route we had run just minutes ago, we were amazed at the distance we had run. When the cart parked, there was a wheelchair waiting for me and the same woman pushed me even further, and eventually outside to a shuttle stop for our hotel. Santo tried to offer her 10 Euros but she would not take it. Finally she said, “Give it to someone you see who is in need. Then I will feel I did something good.”

         After about a 10-minute bus ride, we made it to the hotel. Santo sat down while I took care of checking us. The hotel, the Steinberger Amsterdam, was beautiful, with a large marble lobby, flowers, comfortable seating, and a bar and restaurant just beyond the lobby. Luckily the restaurant served food until 11:30 pm. It was already almost 10 pm. We checked into our room, also large and lovely, and headed down to get something to eat. We enjoyed a salmon dinner with some zero beer and started to settle down from our misadventure. Our server was a lovely young woman with a beautiful smile. Another angel put in our path. More balm for our weary souls!

The House of Many Doors, Prologue

I can feel the scratchy threads of the worn gray and pink floral rug in Aunt Carmella’s room digging into my bare feet as I stare out the window over the open lid of Aunt Carmella’s cedar chest. Aunt Carmella’s room is at the front corner of our house, with two windows behind the trunk facing the busy main street and one window opening onto the side street. I tip my head from side to side, following the track of Aunt Carmella’s pointing finger. I need to be sure of the exact spot.

It is one of the days when Aunt Carmella has given in to my pleading to PLEASE go through her cedar chest with her. It is where she keeps all her treasures, and I love nothing more than hearing her tell the story behind each one. Today, in a small shoebox full of photos, we come across a picture of a boyish Uncle Charlie in his World War I Navy uniform. Charlie was one of Grandpa’s brothers, my great-uncle.

Domenico Mecca, Grandpa and Uncle Charlie’s father, had immigrated to Dunmore, a small coal-mining town in Northeastern Pennsylvania, from the southern Italian village of Avigliano in 1902 at the age of forty, leaving his wife and children behind. Four years later, he had saved enough money to pay for his family’s passage to America. In 1906, Domenico’s wife

Catarina and their five children joined him in Dunmore, including my eighteen-year-old grandfather, Antonio. The family first settled in Dunmore’s Hill Section, where almost all the Italian immigrants lived. In 1917, Domenico completed construction of the house at 401 East Drinker Street. It is the Mecca family homestead, known simply as 401. It is the house where my father was born in 1921 and lived until he died. It is the house where I was born in 1958 and spent my childhood.

I always believed that 401 contained more doors than any other house of its size. My great-grandfather had purposely designed the house with many doors, some at unexpectedly odd angles, so that the layout of the living space could be reconfigured to accommodate the growing and changing extended family that would live there. The upstairs room where Uncle Charlie lived as a bachelor in the 1920s was my father’s bachelor room in the 1940s. In the 1970s, it was our TV room. The same room where I crawled into bed with my mother in the morning after Dad left for work was the room where Aunt Carmella and Aunt Katy buttoned up their black leather shoes and yanked at the cotton stockings that always seemed to pool at their ankles.

I am probably about ten years old the day Aunt Carmella and I find the old picture of Uncle Charlie in his World War I uniform in her trunk. He had died a few years earlier at the age of sixty- seven. I knew him, but only as an old man; Aunt Carmella grew up with him in this house. He was her favorite uncle when she was a little girl. Aunt Carmella holds the photo carefully by one corner as she runs her finger over Uncle Charlie’s youthful face. I want to reach for the picture but wait until she looks up.

“Oh, I loved Uncle Charlie,” she says, as she hands me the photo.

“Was he in the war?” I ask.

“He went to training camp, but the war was over before he had to go overseas.” She pauses and turns to look out the window. “That’s what is so sad.”

“What do you mean? I thought he was OK.”

“Oh, not Uncle Charlie. My grandmother, your great- grandmother Mecca, Charlie’s mother.” Her eyes get that look they always get when she is about to tell a story, like she is rewinding a reel in her head. I wait.

“I never knew my Grandma Mecca,” she continues. “She died a year before I was born.” Aunt Carmella lets her lids close slowly, takes a breath, then looks me in the eye and continues, “of a broken heart.” Circling her head around the room as if she is looking for a ghost, she adds, “This was her room.”

Then Aunt Carmella tells me the story. Uncle Charlie was drafted in June 1918, a few months after he turned twenty-one. He went to boot camp, then was home for a few days before he had to report to a Naval base in Cape May, New Jersey. From there, he would be shipped overseas. Aunt Carmella and I stare at the photo in her hand. On October 22, 1918, he put on his Navy-blue service uniform, the one he is wearing in the picture, said goodbye to his mother, and went out to get the streetcar to Lackawanna Station in Scranton.

Aunt Carmella points out the window towards the grassy triangle separating Drinker and Harper Streets. “See that triangle?” she asks.

“Yes.”

“Well, that used to be a streetcar stop. Streetcars used to go up and down Drinker Street, all the way to downtown Scranton. You could get anywhere on the streetcar. Scranton was one of the first cities to have all electric streetcars. We were famous!”

I look out at the busy street and wonder what it would have been like to clank along on silver tracks in the middle of Drinker Street. Dad told me how he and his boyhood buddies used to hop

on the backs of the cars to hitch a free ride. The grimy and smelly COLTS buses that stop in front of our house now could not compare to my romantic vision of a streetcar.

“Well, Uncle Charlie walked out the front door and down to the streetcar stop. Grandma Mecca could see him from this window. She stood here watching him until he climbed up into the streetcar.” She turns to look at the bed behind us. “Then she lay down in that bed and never got up again. She died five days later.”

I peer over the top of the open trunk, trying to lock my eyes on the place on the island where the streetcar stop might have been. I want to stand where Great-Grandma Mecca stood as she looked out on the world for the last time. I know now that Great- Grandma Mecca most likely died of the Spanish flu. But stories, especially family stories, are their own truth. In our family’s story, she died of a broken heart.

I squint into the afternoon sun, staring at the crooked telephone pole that stands just about where Uncle Charlie stood as he waited anxiously for the streetcar, feeling his mother’s eyes burning into him but not daring to look back. As I recreate her gaze, I wonder how long she stood in this exact spot, watching the streetcar, and her son, disappear down Drinker Street.

Aunt Carmella puts her arm around me, but I do not turn to look at her. I want to know what if feels like when your heart breaks.

✤ ✤ ✤

Great-Uncle Charlie and Great-Grandma Mecca are just two characters in the storied history of this house. I am another. So many Meccas superimposed upon one another, layer upon layer, in this space.

Growing up in this house, every space I entered, every wall and window and banister I touched, connected me to those who

had come before. Every door in this house of many doors whispered secrets and I was compelled to listen. Relatives who had long since moved on from this house were still here in the worn spots on the front porch steps and the indentation in the wall left by a doorknob after an angry slam. They were in the knicks in the porcelain sink and the stains in the clawfoot tub. They were in the creaks in the floors and the frayed ropes in the double-hung windows.

Behind every door in this house of many doors was a story, a relative known or unknown, a piece of my history.

There is another house three miles away in the city of Scranton. It was built by the Hudson Coal Company and rented to miners’ families. My mother’s father had immigrated from Germany in 1923. Her mother followed in 1925. They lived first in Western Pennsylvania, where my mother was born in 1926, then moved to a house at 601 Mary Street in Scranton in 1932. It was my mother’s home until she married my father in 1954 and moved to 401. The four-room house where my mother grew up was barely big enough for the family, which consisted of my grandparents, my mother, and her two siblings. I never saw the house on Mary Street, never even drove by it, while my mother was alive. But its stories are no less real than Great-Grandma Mecca’s broken heart.

Two houses. Two nationalities. Two cultures. Two religions.

Two families.

I want to honor the hopes and dreams, the work and the play, the hardships and the laughter, the tragedies and the triumphs of the people in those two families. Some of them I have known in life, some only in story, some through the mystery of the ties that bind us across generations. Traveling from their homelands of Italy and Germany at the beginning of the 20th century, my refugee ancestors made their way to America with

little more than hope. I am the beneficiary of that hope. Theirs are the stories of America; but they are above all their stories— unique and precious, holding truths we need to remember, holding the seeds of who we have become as a family and as a country.

This book is the result of my journey to learn their stories. As I opened one door after another, I found more than I had imagined. People I thought I knew came to life in new ways. People I never knew took shape. They revealed themselves to me and allowed me to step into their shoes. Truths were revealed and idols toppled. The human beings who stand in their place are even more worthy of awe. In their imperfections and secrets is their humanity, grander than any idol.

I hold their stories as a sacred trust.

Ten Reasons Why I Hang Out at Panera

1. The comfy chairs.

There are two worn leather chairs, just inside the entrance, around the corner on the left. I prefer the one by the window, but either will do. The backs are just the right angle for sitting comfortably with my legs crossed and the arms are just the right height for holding my elbows while I work on my laptop. When I need to stare off into space, as I often do when I get stuck with something I’m working on, I just need to gaze to my left out the window, beyond the Chipotle parking lot. There is a ridge line to the North, not unlike those that edge the neighboring Finger Lakes. From the its hilltop perch, the floor to ceiling window mostly reveals a vast skyscape. The scenes are often dramatic. I can watch storms rolling in from the North, swaths of gray that coalesce into a black mass. Sometimes they pour down rain, blurring the window. Other times they roll right past, the blue rising up from the horizon like paint spilling upside-down from the hilltops. On hot summer days, I can bask in the burning sun while keeping cool inside, though I keep a sweater in my car for days when the A/C turns into an Arctic blast from the fans above my chair. In winter, I can watch the flakes pile up on Grant Avenue at the base of the hill. That’s usually when my husband calls, urging me to come home. But the swirling skyful of white is just too beautiful and mesmerizing. I’ll get another cup of coffee and take my chances later.

2. A bottomless coffee cup.

I have signed up for Panera’s monthly plan which gives me unlimited beverages 365 days a year. I’m afraid Panera is not making much on me, though I do order breakfast or lunch occasionally.

3. Real food.

As advertised, Panera’s food is fresh and clean. My breakfast choice is either the steel-ground oatmeal with strawberries (I skip the pecans to eliminate some calories) or the multi-grain bagel flat, sliced, with chive and onion cream cheese. It’s about half the calories of a regular bagel and toasts to a lovely crunch. For lunch, I skip the sandwiches (most over 1000 calories) and opt for soup or salad with an apple for my side. I only splurge on the usual baguette side for the French onion soup so I can dip the bread in the broth.

4. The drive.

Since we moved to Auburn from the Boston area, we have been amazed at how scenic every drive is. We turn out our driveway and are in picture-perfect rolling farmland. But then there is “The Arterial” and Grant Ave. The quickest route to Panera is on these busy, commercials streets, but I recently discovered a back way to Panera that makes the drive a little longer but oh-so-much more pleasant. It even include a quirky farm with a big red barn and fake animals!

5. Getting work done.

Whether I’m working on my writing, paying the bills, or researching something on the internet, I am able to concentrate here in a way that is impossible at home, even if I am alone in a quiet room. I am somehow able to tune out the background music, noisy customers, and beeping alarms and tune in to the work at hand. I can’t get distracted from it because there is nothing else I can do here. Except of course for . . .

6. People-watching.

The variety of customers is astonishing. From octogenarians to infants on their first outing to a restaurant, the parade in and out is colorful and diverse. And I have the perfect vantage point from my corner by the window. Only a few tables hidden behind the fake-stone wall with the fireplace curiously set at eye level mar my view of the entire dining room. The large table right in front of me hosts a regular breakfast group of Baby-boomers. Sometimes I overhear bits of conversation, but I don’t really tune in, even though one male voice is so deep and resonant that it is hard to ignore. I wonder how they met, what their connection is, what common past compels them to stay closely connected. The large table further back often hosts meetings of various sorts, usually more women than men. Are they working on a candidate’s campaign? Planning the next fundraiser for their church? Gathering information to present at the next City Council meeting? Tables of two host managers interviewing candidates, tutors working with students, women catching up on one another’s lives, couples taking a break from their phones to share some time together, and sponsors meeting with men and women in recovery. There are times in my life when I have been half of each of these pairs. I’ve also seen many families, mostly moms with kids, probably because I am here during the day. Toddlers often love the smile of a stranger, but they make me feel guilty when I need to drop out of the endless smile volley. The groups often include three generations, sometimes four, with the youngest member the focus of all the attention. It’s fun to guess who looks like who and to wonder whether any are adopted, as my own children are.

7. The staff.

Relentlessly friendly, most of the staff know me by name and I know some of theirs. We all know that we, the regulars and the staff, are part of the same family.

8. The regulars.

Margaret: Margaret is here every day. She picks the same small two-seater table. Regulars always choose the same spots, unless they are not available. Don’t even get me started on what happens when one of my chairs is not available. (OK, I’ve started already).

Digression: My reaction to my seats being taken depends on my mood. On a bad day, when I am really needing some Panera time, this situation causes a physical sensation of panic. Often I leave immediately and try to hold back tears until I get in the car. Of course, a large part of me wants to stare down whoever is in my seat, willing them to leave, but luckily I have resisted this temptation. (Except maybe for a quick petulant look that might move a very emotionally intelligent person. This rarely works). Sitting at a regular table is simply not an option for me on a bad day. It’s comfy chair or nothing. Recently, I realized the Starbucks down the street also has comfy chairs. Sometimes I will turn on my heel and head there, but it is just not the same. The new Roast and Toast also has comfy chairs, but it’s too big a risk—they are usually taken. On a good day, turning the corner to see my chairs taken still pulls me up short. The disappointment is profound, but I am not completely disabled by it. I am able to take a deep breath and consider my options. I actually have a list, including hours of operation, of “comfy chair cafe’s” from Geneva to Syracuse. They’re a fine alternative occasionally, but a longer drive and none has all of the advantages of Panera. Some days I can even sit at a regular table, but it must, of course, be one that faces my chairs!

Now back to Margaret . . . She always has a book to read. I’ve never gotten close enough to actually read the title, but they appear to be works of popular fiction. Sometimes we chat, sometimes it’s just a quick hello. One year my husband and I ran into her and her husband at the New York State Fair. Dick comes in occasionally to join her and always says hello. Margaret has speaking relationships with more regulars than I do. There are a lot of regulars I know by face but not name. We greet one another with a nod and a smile, sometimes a “How are you?” but somehow we are past the point where we can ask one another’s names.

Name Unknown. One of these nodding acquaintances became a speaking friend when he one day answered my “How are you?” honestly. He had just had a cancer treatment. I could tell he was feeling low and he seemed to want to talk.  As he told me a bit about his recurring brain cancer, his mood seem to lift. He was genuinely appreciative of my interest and concern. As he raised a hand in goodbye, he said, “Well, whatcha gonna do?” and left with a shrug and smile. Whenever I see him now, I ask him how he is in a tone that lets him know I am truly interested. 

 Jim. I call Jim “my Panera husband” though I think he may be uncomfortable with that moniker. He’s also a comfy chair sitter, so when he is here we share the comfy chair corner. Over time, we have talked more and more and found much we have in common. We talk politics and shows we’ve been streaming. I have often shared info I discovered while researching my book, including showing him pictures of my family. He’s shared with me about his family, including kids and grandkids. His wife Mary also comes in, usually separately, and I have gotten to know her a bit as well. A few years ago, when Jim had not been in for a while, our family of regulars found out that his daughter had died. We were all shocked and saddened. We had a feeling of helplessness, being only “Panera friends.” I reached out with a sympathy card, and when he started coming in again, we were able to talk about his loss. I see him and Mary at events around town (we seem drawn to the same sorts of events) and they both came to my book reading at the library. Are we really only “Panera friends”?

Paul and Steve. Paul and Steve are both tall, with sturdy builds, square jaws, and winning smiles. They are probably in their early fifties. Handsome. I often find them occupying the two comfy chairs. The first few times, I didn’t hide my disappointment and took a seat facing them, waiting for them to leave (unless it was a bad day when I turned on my heel to cry in the car). One day, they offered to give up the seats. “Do you want to sit here?” they asked, moving to get up. “OH, no, please. It’s fine. I do love those chairs, but I’ll be fine.” This was not what I wanted to do, but how could I be anything but kind in response to their kindness? “I’m Steve,” one of them offered, “and this is Paul.” I tried to register their names in my brain as I introduced myself. Gradually our conversations grew longer as we repeatedly intersected at the chairs. I wondered about their friendship and the regularity of their meetings. Sponsor and sponsee? They both laughed easily and our “war” over the seats became a private joke between us. Somehow I no longer felt so bad when they got to the chairs first. How could I? We were friends now.

Kurt. As soon as he walked in and joined me in the second chair, I knew Kurt was an artist, or at least a creative person of some sort. He wore a rakish beret and the vest over his loose white shirt was colorful. Maybe an African print? As he asked if he could join me, his smiling face was open, even inviting. He just seemed like someone I could talk to, someone I would have something in common with, though I didn’t yet know what it was. I run into Kurt every six weeks or so, and each time we learn more about one another.  Musician and psychotherapist are among the hats he wears. He owns a barn a bit south of here that he and his partner have turned into an arts center where artists of all kinds can go to work on their projects. I told him I would go there to continue work on my book if only it had a comfy chair (it doesn’t). I still plan to stop there some day. Kurt’s partner teachers at the University of Nebraska Omaha, the same school where I got my MFA in Creative Writing a few years ago. One day I was attending a meeting about a new community initiative to address the homeless problem in Auburn, and there was Kurt! So many points of intersection.

Linda and Mike. Linda has chin length hair a delicate shade of red that she wears curled softly under. She is slight of build, but seems strong. She comes in often with Mike, a tall, dignified man with blond-gray hair who seems to favor nautical attire. We had a nodding acquaintance for a while until one day on her way in Linda asks me what I am working on and we talk about the book. We introduce ourselves, then I ask what her husband’s name is while he is parking the car. “That’s not my husband,” Linda shoots back, “that’s my son.” I had them both down for late sixties, early seventies so this didn’t make sense. “I’m ninety-nine,” she tells me with a smile, clearly proud of her longevity. Now we greet one another whenever they come is and usually have a short conversation. Linda loves to tell me what she’s been doing or planning to do: cooking a lamb dinner, weeding the garden, walking in Hoopes Park, cleaning the floors, taking their beagle Trixie, who they adopted a few years ago, to the vet. Right after they adopted her, Linda shared photos of the oddly cute pup. For holidays, Linda and Mike go to an elegant colonial restaurant one town over. It seems to be just the two of them. Linda’s husband is dead, and Mike is an only “child.” I’ve been tempted many times to invite them to join us, but haven’t yet. They live in a stately white house with black shutters right near the park. Every year, Mike takes his vacation on Nantucket (hence the nautical style). Linda is now 101.

9. Seeing friends.

Everyone knows where I sit and friends who occasionally stop in always look for me here. I feel like Lucy behind her “Psychiatric Help 5 cents” sign—people are checking to see if the doctor is in! I even call it my office and that’s partly why I work so well here. When I leave home for the office, I am headed to work, so that’s what I do when I’m here. I even imagine an invisible glass door and feel like I’m inviting people into my office when they come up to chat or just to say hello.

10. The stranger.

One day a stranger came in and sat in the other chair, to my right. He was an older gentleman, someone who could have been a professor of some sort, with a worn tweed jacket and a brown wool scarf around his neck against the autumn chill. We nodded and smiled, acknowledging one another. As he sipped his coffee, I could see out of the corner of my eye that he was periodically looking over towards me. I got the sense he wanted to talk, so I pulled myself away from my work of the day to meet his gaze. As soon as I did, he immediately spoke, “Do you remember where you were on nine-eleven.” I only then realized that the day was indeed September 11. A bit odd to ask a stranger, but an apt question for the day. I explained to him how I had been home alone, how I had to pick up my kids, ages nine and five, from school and keep them from the news until my husband could get home and we could tell them together. He listened patiently. “How about you?” I asked. “How do you remember it?” “My son worked in the second tower,” he answered. At first I thought his son had died that day, but he continued to tell me how his son had not gone into his company’s new office at the World Trade Center but had stayed back in the old office that day. His life had been spared. Except the gentleman and his wife did not know this until much later in the morning. For several hours, they thought their son had died. Clearly, this memory was as fresh today as it was every September 11. The fear, the anxiety, the relief—all came flooding back. And he needed to share it with someone. I was so glad I gone into the office that day so I could offer an empathetic ear to the man’s story. I was glad he had stepped through the invisible door to my office. I’m glad he saw the “Psychiatric Help 5 cents” sign. And I’m glad I flipped over the sign to say “The Doctor is IN.”

You never know what will happen at Panera.