Ten Reasons Why I Hang Out at Panera

1. The comfy chairs.

There are two worn leather chairs, just inside the entrance, around the corner on the left. I prefer the one by the window, but either will do. The backs are just the right angle for sitting comfortably with my legs crossed and the arms are just the right height for holding my elbows while I work on my laptop. When I need to stare off into space, as I often do when I get stuck with something I’m working on, I just need to gaze to my left out the window, beyond the Chipotle parking lot. There is a ridge line to the North, not unlike those that edge the neighboring Finger Lakes. From the its hilltop perch, the floor to ceiling window mostly reveals a vast skyscape. The scenes are often dramatic. I can watch storms rolling in from the North, swaths of gray that coalesce into a black mass. Sometimes they pour down rain, blurring the window. Other times they roll right past, the blue rising up from the horizon like paint spilling upside-down from the hilltops. On hot summer days, I can bask in the burning sun while keeping cool inside, though I keep a sweater in my car for days when the A/C turns into an Arctic blast from the fans above my chair. In winter, I can watch the flakes pile up on Grant Avenue at the base of the hill. That’s usually when my husband calls, urging me to come home. But the swirling skyful of white is just too beautiful and mesmerizing. I’ll get another cup of coffee and take my chances later.

2. A bottomless coffee cup.

I have signed up for Panera’s monthly plan which gives me unlimited beverages 365 days a year. I’m afraid Panera is not making much on me, though I do order breakfast or lunch occasionally.

3. Real food.

As advertised, Panera’s food is fresh and clean. My breakfast choice is either the steel-ground oatmeal with strawberries (I skip the pecans to eliminate some calories) or the multi-grain bagel flat, sliced, with chive and onion cream cheese. It’s about half the calories of a regular bagel and toasts to a lovely crunch. For lunch, I skip the sandwiches (most over 1000 calories) and opt for soup or salad with an apple for my side. I only splurge on the usual baguette side for the French onion soup so I can dip the bread in the broth.

4. The drive.

Since we moved to Auburn from the Boston area, we have been amazed at how scenic every drive is. We turn out our driveway and are in picture-perfect rolling farmland. But then there is “The Arterial” and Grant Ave. The quickest route to Panera is on these busy, commercials streets, but I recently discovered a back way to Panera that makes the drive a little longer but oh-so-much more pleasant. It even include a quirky farm with a big red barn and fake animals!

5. Getting work done.

Whether I’m working on my writing, paying the bills, or researching something on the internet, I am able to concentrate here in a way that is impossible at home, even if I am alone in a quiet room. I am somehow able to tune out the background music, noisy customers, and beeping alarms and tune in to the work at hand. I can’t get distracted from it because there is nothing else I can do here. Except of course for . . .

6. People-watching.

The variety of customers is astonishing. From octogenarians to infants on their first outing to a restaurant, the parade in and out is colorful and diverse. And I have the perfect vantage point from my corner by the window. Only a few tables hidden behind the fake-stone wall with the fireplace curiously set at eye level mar my view of the entire dining room. The large table right in front of me hosts a regular breakfast group of Baby-boomers. Sometimes I overhear bits of conversation, but I don’t really tune in, even though one male voice is so deep and resonant that it is hard to ignore. I wonder how they met, what their connection is, what common past compels them to stay closely connected. The large table further back often hosts meetings of various sorts, usually more women than men. Are they working on a candidate’s campaign? Planning the next fundraiser for their church? Gathering information to present at the next City Council meeting? Tables of two host managers interviewing candidates, tutors working with students, women catching up on one another’s lives, couples taking a break from their phones to share some time together, and sponsors meeting with men and women in recovery. There are times in my life when I have been half of each of these pairs. I’ve also seen many families, mostly moms with kids, probably because I am here during the day. Toddlers often love the smile of a stranger, but they make me feel guilty when I need to drop out of the endless smile volley. The groups often include three generations, sometimes four, with the youngest member the focus of all the attention. It’s fun to guess who looks like who and to wonder whether any are adopted, as my own children are.

7. The staff.

Relentlessly friendly, most of the staff know me by name and I know some of theirs. We all know that we, the regulars and the staff, are part of the same family.

8. The regulars.

Margaret: Margaret is here every day. She picks the same small two-seater table. Regulars always choose the same spots, unless they are not available. Don’t even get me started on what happens when one of my chairs is not available. (OK, I’ve started already).

Digression: My reaction to my seats being taken depends on my mood. On a bad day, when I am really needing some Panera time, this situation causes a physical sensation of panic. Often I leave immediately and try to hold back tears until I get in the car. Of course, a large part of me wants to stare down whoever is in my seat, willing them to leave, but luckily I have resisted this temptation. (Except maybe for a quick petulant look that might move a very emotionally intelligent person. This rarely works). Sitting at a regular table is simply not an option for me on a bad day. It’s comfy chair or nothing. Recently, I realized the Starbucks down the street also has comfy chairs. Sometimes I will turn on my heel and head there, but it is just not the same. The new Roast and Toast also has comfy chairs, but it’s too big a risk—they are usually taken. On a good day, turning the corner to see my chairs taken still pulls me up short. The disappointment is profound, but I am not completely disabled by it. I am able to take a deep breath and consider my options. I actually have a list, including hours of operation, of “comfy chair cafe’s” from Geneva to Syracuse. They’re a fine alternative occasionally, but a longer drive and none has all of the advantages of Panera. Some days I can even sit at a regular table, but it must, of course, be one that faces my chairs!

Now back to Margaret . . . She always has a book to read. I’ve never gotten close enough to actually read the title, but they appear to be works of popular fiction. Sometimes we chat, sometimes it’s just a quick hello. One year my husband and I ran into her and her husband at the New York State Fair. Dick comes in occasionally to join her and always says hello. Margaret has speaking relationships with more regulars than I do. There are a lot of regulars I know by face but not name. We greet one another with a nod and a smile, sometimes a “How are you?” but somehow we are past the point where we can ask one another’s names.

Name Unknown. One of these nodding acquaintances became a speaking friend when he one day answered my “How are you?” honestly. He had just had a cancer treatment. I could tell he was feeling low and he seemed to want to talk.  As he told me a bit about his recurring brain cancer, his mood seem to lift. He was genuinely appreciative of my interest and concern. As he raised a hand in goodbye, he said, “Well, whatcha gonna do?” and left with a shrug and smile. Whenever I see him now, I ask him how he is in a tone that lets him know I am truly interested. 

 Jim. I call Jim “my Panera husband” though I think he may be uncomfortable with that moniker. He’s also a comfy chair sitter, so when he is here we share the comfy chair corner. Over time, we have talked more and more and found much we have in common. We talk politics and shows we’ve been streaming. I have often shared info I discovered while researching my book, including showing him pictures of my family. He’s shared with me about his family, including kids and grandkids. His wife Mary also comes in, usually separately, and I have gotten to know her a bit as well. A few years ago, when Jim had not been in for a while, our family of regulars found out that his daughter had died. We were all shocked and saddened. We had a feeling of helplessness, being only “Panera friends.” I reached out with a sympathy card, and when he started coming in again, we were able to talk about his loss. I see him and Mary at events around town (we seem drawn to the same sorts of events) and they both came to my book reading at the library. Are we really only “Panera friends”?

Paul and Steve. Paul and Steve are both tall, with sturdy builds, square jaws, and winning smiles. They are probably in their early fifties. Handsome. I often find them occupying the two comfy chairs. The first few times, I didn’t hide my disappointment and took a seat facing them, waiting for them to leave (unless it was a bad day when I turned on my heel to cry in the car). One day, they offered to give up the seats. “Do you want to sit here?” they asked, moving to get up. “OH, no, please. It’s fine. I do love those chairs, but I’ll be fine.” This was not what I wanted to do, but how could I be anything but kind in response to their kindness? “I’m Steve,” one of them offered, “and this is Paul.” I tried to register their names in my brain as I introduced myself. Gradually our conversations grew longer as we repeatedly intersected at the chairs. I wondered about their friendship and the regularity of their meetings. Sponsor and sponsee? They both laughed easily and our “war” over the seats became a private joke between us. Somehow I no longer felt so bad when they got to the chairs first. How could I? We were friends now.

Kurt. As soon as he walked in and joined me in the second chair, I knew Kurt was an artist, or at least a creative person of some sort. He wore a rakish beret and the vest over his loose white shirt was colorful. Maybe an African print? As he asked if he could join me, his smiling face was open, even inviting. He just seemed like someone I could talk to, someone I would have something in common with, though I didn’t yet know what it was. I run into Kurt every six weeks or so, and each time we learn more about one another.  Musician and psychotherapist are among the hats he wears. He owns a barn a bit south of here that he and his partner have turned into an arts center where artists of all kinds can go to work on their projects. I told him I would go there to continue work on my book if only it had a comfy chair (it doesn’t). I still plan to stop there some day. Kurt’s partner teachers at the University of Nebraska Omaha, the same school where I got my MFA in Creative Writing a few years ago. One day I was attending a meeting about a new community initiative to address the homeless problem in Auburn, and there was Kurt! So many points of intersection.

Linda and Mike. Linda has chin length hair a delicate shade of red that she wears curled softly under. She is slight of build, but seems strong. She comes in often with Mike, a tall, dignified man with blond-gray hair who seems to favor nautical attire. We had a nodding acquaintance for a while until one day on her way in Linda asks me what I am working on and we talk about the book. We introduce ourselves, then I ask what her husband’s name is while he is parking the car. “That’s not my husband,” Linda shoots back, “that’s my son.” I had them both down for late sixties, early seventies so this didn’t make sense. “I’m ninety-nine,” she tells me with a smile, clearly proud of her longevity. Now we greet one another whenever they come is and usually have a short conversation. Linda loves to tell me what she’s been doing or planning to do: cooking a lamb dinner, weeding the garden, walking in Hoopes Park, cleaning the floors, taking their beagle Trixie, who they adopted a few years ago, to the vet. Right after they adopted her, Linda shared photos of the oddly cute pup. For holidays, Linda and Mike go to an elegant colonial restaurant one town over. It seems to be just the two of them. Linda’s husband is dead, and Mike is an only “child.” I’ve been tempted many times to invite them to join us, but haven’t yet. They live in a stately white house with black shutters right near the park. Every year, Mike takes his vacation on Nantucket (hence the nautical style). Linda is now 101.

9. Seeing friends.

Everyone knows where I sit and friends who occasionally stop in always look for me here. I feel like Lucy behind her “Psychiatric Help 5 cents” sign—people are checking to see if the doctor is in! I even call it my office and that’s partly why I work so well here. When I leave home for the office, I am headed to work, so that’s what I do when I’m here. I even imagine an invisible glass door and feel like I’m inviting people into my office when they come up to chat or just to say hello.

10. The stranger.

One day a stranger came in and sat in the other chair, to my right. He was an older gentleman, someone who could have been a professor of some sort, with a worn tweed jacket and a brown wool scarf around his neck against the autumn chill. We nodded and smiled, acknowledging one another. As he sipped his coffee, I could see out of the corner of my eye that he was periodically looking over towards me. I got the sense he wanted to talk, so I pulled myself away from my work of the day to meet his gaze. As soon as I did, he immediately spoke, “Do you remember where you were on nine-eleven.” I only then realized that the day was indeed September 11. A bit odd to ask a stranger, but an apt question for the day. I explained to him how I had been home alone, how I had to pick up my kids, ages nine and five, from school and keep them from the news until my husband could get home and we could tell them together. He listened patiently. “How about you?” I asked. “How do you remember it?” “My son worked in the second tower,” he answered. At first I thought his son had died that day, but he continued to tell me how his son had not gone into his company’s new office at the World Trade Center but had stayed back in the old office that day. His life had been spared. Except the gentleman and his wife did not know this until much later in the morning. For several hours, they thought their son had died. Clearly, this memory was as fresh today as it was every September 11. The fear, the anxiety, the relief—all came flooding back. And he needed to share it with someone. I was so glad I gone into the office that day so I could offer an empathetic ear to the man’s story. I was glad he had stepped through the invisible door to my office. I’m glad he saw the “Psychiatric Help 5 cents” sign. And I’m glad I flipped over the sign to say “The Doctor is IN.”

You never know what will happen at Panera.

Twilight Time

A twilight drive through a strange town.
Houses stand in shadowed moonlight,
Dark and getting darker.
Windows glow an amber shade
Or bluish light flickers across the walls
As the houses become homes.

There is life inside.
Dinnertime, early evening,
The time when families gather,
Couples hold hands in twin recliners,
Men and women busy themselves with chores
Or sit alone, reading a book or newspaper.
It is the time that homeless people miss the most.

I rarely see a body through the window
But I imagine cozy scenes in every house.
I want to transport myself
Into the glowing light emanating from curtained windows.
There is belonging in that gentle light,
Comfort.

Longing pulls at my heart.
Perhaps I want to know these strangers basking in lamp light.
Perhaps I want to share a meal and listen to their laughter.

But no.
What I really long for
Is my own home
Somewhere beyond the headlights
Drawing ever closer.
As we drive through this strange town.

August 2025

Apple Strudel

She started with the paring knife
Held it tightly in her right hand
The knuckle of her index finger
Pressed tightly against the base of the blade.
Deftly, she pulled the knife towards her
piercing the tight red skin of the McIntosh apple.
One. Long. Pull.
As she slowly spun the apple in her left hand.

Sitting in my father’s captain’s chair across from her
My eyes were level with her hands
As she stood at the kitchen table.
At her right elbow, a metal colander of rinsed apples
Was perched atop a Pyrex pie plate.
In front of her, the largest bowl of her colored set,
The deep-blue-sky one,
stood ready to receive the skins before they were discarded.

How did her large hands perform this delicate task, I wondered.
Would my small hands ever be able
To match her quick, elegant movements
As she shaved thin strips of skin from the white meat of the apples.

Next the apples needed to be sliced very thin
A task performed with the same paring knife.
With my chin in my hands,
I watched as the slices fell like a waterfall
Into the bowl, one after the other.
My excitement started to build.
My part was coming up.

After all the apples were sliced,
My mother measured a cup of sugar, a teaspoon of cinnamon,
Breadcrumbs, raisins, and a small pan of melted butter Into the bowl.

With the tip of her baby finger, she tested the butter,
making sure it was cool enough,
Before she slid the bowl across the table to me.“Go ahead,” she said as she wiped her forehead with the back of her hand.
“You know what to do.”

After pushing my shirtsleeves up above my elbow,
And repositioning myself to kneel on the captain’s chair,
I reached both hands into the bowl.
The grains of sugar felt rough,
while the warm butter oozed between my fingers.
I kept reaching, down below the cool apples,
Scooping handfuls of the mixture
And depositing them on the top of the heap.
Over and over I tossed the strudel filling
Until the apples were coated evenly.

“I’m done!” I pronounced proudly to my mother,
Offering the bowl for her inspection.
“It looks just right,” she said,
As she wiped my hands with a moist paper towel.

I could only watch as my mother prepared the dough,
Mixing flour and egg, stirring with a fork,
Then forming a ball that would sit under a warm bowl for ten minutes.
Everything had to be just right for the next part:
The stretching of the dough.

Mom shook her special strudel cloth,
A brown, yellow and white plaid linen tablecloth
Used only for this purpose,
And pressed it smooth on the table with her hands.
Then came the flour before the dough was set down
In the center of the cloth.With her wooden rolling pin with the red handles,
Mom pushed firmly in every direction
Until the dough was about the size of a pie crust.

Now came the magic.
With hands greased with melted butter
Mom laid the circle of dough on top of her fisted hands.
Gently and slowing she pulled the dough apart
Stretching it further and further.
Then she threw the dough into the air with a spinning motion,
Like a pizza maker,
Always catching it on the backs of her hands.
The dough grew larger and larger
And thinner and thinner.
Eventually it was too large to spin
So she spread it on her arms up to her elbows
And continued stretching.
She needed to move quickly or her hands would break through the dough
And she would need to start all over again.

“It should be thin enough that you can read a newspaper through it,”
She told me, laughing.
After she laid it gently on the cloth,
I stood up to look.
Sure enough, I could see the plaid pattern of the tablecloth
Clearly through the strudel dough!
“How do you do that?” I asked, amazed, making her smile.

Mom let me dump the apple mixture onto the dough,
Then she spread it with her hands
And ever so gently rolled it up from one end to the other.
Then she formed it into a crescent shape
And lay it carefully on the baking sheet.

Everyone raved about Mom’s apple strudel.
Since my mother is German,
People thought it was from some old family recipe,
But it was actually from the Betty Crocker cookbook
She got when she got married.

When someone asked her for the recipe,
Mom gave it, offering to demonstrate
The delicate process for making the dough.

Nothing in the world tastes better
Than Mom’s apple strudel.

After my mother died,
I carried on the tradition of her strudel,
Usually for holidays or special occasions.
Sometimes my hands break through the dough
And I have to start over.
Sometimes I forget the breadcrumbs
And the filling is runny.
Strudel making requires patience
And love.

For me, the best part will always be
Reaching spread fingers into the apple mixture
And turning it over and over.
Just like Mom taught me.

July 2025

United We Stand, Divided We Fall

We are falling,
Swept up into the vortex of a tornado
By the forces of evil,
No, by people of evil
Who watch gleefully
As the world they have set on edge
Twists out of our control.

We are falling,
Spinning madly,
Familiar objects fly by
Everything out of place,
Swirling, tumbling
Us, too.

We are falling,
No ground beneath our feet
Yet knowing that at some point
We must land.
Gravity demands it.
Where we will find ourselves
When the twister spins itself out
As surely it must?

We are falling
Into a new world not of our making.
(or is it?)
Will we recognize anything?
Ourselves?
Our country?
Will we be able to find among the rubble
The pieces we need to rebuild?
Will our grandchildren
Even know what it is possible to build,
Having no model for what democracy looks like?

We are falling
Because we had a republic
But did not keep it.

Day 11

Saturday, October 26

Even though we had intended to get up around 7:30 or 8 am to get packed and help Alison and Maurice with the household packing, we didn’t actually get up until closer to 9 am. We are sleeping better and longer than ever before. Wonder what will happen when we get home.

After our own packing was done, we were able to help tidy the cottage by “hoovering” the floors, doing dishes, wiping down the counters, and carrying bags and boxes to the cars. Alison is an amazingly efficient packer and loads more into her car than seems possible … with room to spare. We were on the road before 10:30 am.

We would be taking a long way home along Northern Ireland’s Antrim coast. The scenery all along the way was beautiful, reminding me of the colors around Glenveagh—burnt oranges, dull yellows, and browns covering headlands that loomed over us before plunging into the sea.

We stopped at Downhill House, a mansion built in the late 18th century for Frederick, 4th Earl of Bristol and Lord Bishop of Derry. Much of the building was destroyed by fire in 1851 before being rebuilt in the 1870s. It fell into disrepair after the Second World War leaving an eerie shell of what must once have been a magnificent house (castle). Mussenden Temple, a small circular building located on the cliff next to the mansion, sits high above the Atlantic Ocean. It is said to have housed the bishop’s extensive library. Stone walls surround the entire property, which includes a walled garden, an ice house, and a dovecote.

The grassy path up to the temple led us along a field of cows lazily grazing on a steep hill that eventually plunges to a pristine beach below. Another sloped walkway leads to the mansion, where you can walk through the abandoned remains, with signs identifying the rooms. The views through the windows were like framed paintings of the exquisite scenery beyond. We then walked down the steep hill to Al’s Coffee, a wooden hut surrounded by benches and picnic tables, where we purchased coffees to warm us before getting back into the cars for our ride home to Holywood.

Before we unpacked the car, Alison insisted we sit for a cup of tea and a “wee bite.” While we were enjoying our hot tea as the heat came up in the living room, Maurice secretly unloaded the cars! There was nothing for us to do but head upstairs for a nap before our second dinner at the Golf Club across the street. We are once more settled into our home-away-from-home!

Dinner at the Golf Club was a delight. The staff are all so friendly and welcoming, and of course know Alison and Maurice well. Once again we had drinks in the lounge, where we ordered our dinner, then were brought to our table when our meals were nearly ready. It’s a nice system. I opted for steak with onions rings and sauteed mushrooms followed by a dessert of carrot cake trifle with orange custard and cream. Yum! Hey, I’m on vacation.

I enjoyed our dinner conversation, having quite a laugh about the differences in our “languages”—British/Irish English and American English. Bin lorry vs. garbage truck. Rubbish vs. garbage. French fries vs. chips. Grand vs. great. Lovely vs. nice or beautiful. Etc. We especially love, and are beginning to use “wee” ourselves. It is used for everything here. “Let’s stop in for a wee pint.” “Can you hand me that wee book?” “Do you see that wee man over there?” Etc. I feel our speech is so much less melodic than theirs. But Alison said she liked the cadence of American speech.

As we enjoyed our time together, I was cognizant of how soon it will come to an end. It’s hard to imagine easier people to be with. I only hope they feel the same way, especially as we have rather foisted ourselves upon them for two weeks!

Day 10

Friday, October 25

Our first truly rainy day in Donegal. Skies overcast all day with intermittent rain. Nice to just hang out in the living room with its magnificent views—in every kind of weather.

Was able to catch up on my blog after all those days of relaxing fun and still read enough to finish the library book I had picked up at the Holywood Library before we left for Donegal.

Alison, Maurice, and Lucy went for a short walk in the early afternoon when the rain had stopped for a moment but Santo and I decided to stay in. When they got back, we had our cheese, meat, chutney, tomato, and fruit lunch with the leftover bread I had made.

Late afternoon – almost time for the pub. But first we drove to the beach across the way, beyond the golf course, which was too soggy to walk on. Since it was low tide, we were able to walk the beach all the way into Dunfanaghy. The dark clouds were lifting a bit, showing the twilight light beneath them. Colors from pink and purple to blue, gray, and black were contrasted by the cream-colored sand. It was lovely to see the village up ahead and recognize the buildings. We have been here long enough to know the landmarks. Feels like it is OUR village.

Once in town, we headed for Arnold’s Hotel for drinks in their lounge. There was a wide, airy lobby with tartan plaid rugs and red plush furniture. We walked through the lobby to the lounge, which was similarly decorated, and I was finally able to get a truly comfy chair from which to sip my “double zero” beer! There was a lively group at a large table behind us and we were able to enjoy their jovial banter since the plush furniture and carpeting made it easy to converse above the background noise. Our last pub visit in Donegal! There is not the same pub culture back in Holywood, so we will miss these late afternoon/early evening respites from the world beyond. We will need to find places to go at home to give such welcome pause to our days.

We enjoyed a dinner of beef curry with rice, accompanied by yogurt and chutney to cool the heat of the curry. Alison had prepared the meat earlier and just needed to heat the curry and cook the rice and we were ready to eat. After dinner, we dove back into Ted Lasso, finding it more enjoyable with each episode. So nice to have these characters in common now with Alison and Maurice. While watching, we enjoyed a dessert of brioche buttered-bread pudding that Alison had warmed in the over and served with crème fraiche. Life does not get much better.

Days 6 – 9

Monday, October 21 – Thursday, October24

This week in Donegal (Dunfanaghy to be precise) has been priceless. Healthy doses of relaxation with good friends, walks on the beach, breathtaking scenery, visits to the pub, and exquisite homemade dinners.

Our days have a gentle rhythm. Everyone sleeps until they wake up and are ready for the day. We’ve been getting up between 9 and 10 am most days and aren’t always the last ones up. Some mornings everyone gets their own breakfast. I usually opt for Greek yogurt (I’m guessing 100% fat because it is SOOOOO creamy and delicious) with fresh raspberries and homemade muesli from “Without Waste”, a shop in Holywood where you refill your glass containers with everything from oils and vinegars to dried fruit and nuts, granola and muesli, and spices. Other days Maurice makes us a proper Irish breakfast, a fry consisting of white and black pudding, rashers (bacon), friend egg, grilled tomato, potato bread, and soda bread.

Somewhere between 11 am and noon, we head off somewhere for an afternoon walk or other outing, with lunch fit in somewhere along the way.  Depending on the day, we have a picnic lunch or eat at home. The meal consists of exquisite cheeses and meats, bread, crackers, chutneys, tomatoes and grapes.

Early evening means a pint at the pub. I’ve been amazed at how many 0.0% alcohol beers are available here, including Guinness, Heineken, Moretti, and Erdlinger. They are delicious and readily available, some even on tap. The pubs all have a friendly, warm atmosphere with wood all around, some gleaming, some dark and dull. There is always a bar with bar stools. Built-in benches with dark cushions ring the room, set with small rectangular and round tables. There is often a larger table where music sessions can take place and in many pubs a back or side lounge in addition to the main bar. The lounges are well suited for children and families. We usually have one or two drinks before heading home for dinner. One night we were treated to an unexpected session with about nine musicians at the large table. I was happy to see three women among the group. There were violins, guitars, mandolin, squeeze box, hand drum, and tin whistle.

Dinners have been quite gourmet, some prepared by Lucy in advance, including meatballs which accompanied macaroni and cheese, and turkey chili with my homemade guacamole. The first night we had a whole chicken roasted atop two whole garlic gloves and accompanied by a lentil sauce, along with roasted potatoes and multi-colored carrots. Lucy also prepared a dish of chicken with cream and spinach which we accompanied with mushrooms, green beans, and roasted potatoes. One night was fish & chips, meant to come from a local shop but when they were closed we opted for frozen. They were hot and delicious and we barely missed the ketchup and vinegar that we had forgotten at home. Tonight will be beef curry over rice. I even managed to make two loaves of bread and an apple crisp

Our first day we headed out to Marble Hill beach, not too far from our cottage. It is a wide, sweeping beach and the surf was still high from a recent storm. From the beach we had views across Sheep Haven Bay to Rosguill, and behind us, in the distance, the majestic Muckish Mountain. In the shape of a buffallo’s back (Muckish means “back”), it towers over this part of Donegal. We strolled along alone and in groups, everyone keeping their own pace, meeting up here and there and commenting on the beauty of where we were. The next day, Alison, Lucy, and I walked from the cottage to the beach just across the golf course from us. It is set in a half moon bay. The weather, like on most days, was changeable, with dark clouds swirling around us as the sun lit up the hills across the bay. At one point, we saw a rainbow begin to form, then watched as it grew gradually until it had completed its arc and dove into the sea. What a sight! The slanting light made the sea grasses radiate with a golden glow. It was magical.

One of our excursions took us all around one of Donegal’s many peninsulas along the “Wild Atlantic Way.” We walked another beautiful beach near Fanad, saw a pristine white and red lighthouse, stopped at a gourmet shop at Ramelton, where we enjoyed some old stone buildings, and finally landed at the Olde Glen Bar for a pint. The drive home from there showed us changing skies in colors ranging from orange and pink to deep blue and purple and eventually to black.

Our final excursion was to Glenveagh, a national park (one of only 6 in Ireland) which is home to a Victorian castle and gardens from the mid 19th century. The walk from the visitor’s center to the castle is 4 km (about 2 ½ miles), mostly flat but with a few hills. I so hoped I would be able to complete the walk without incident—and I did! The landscape here was different from anything we had previously seen, with brown and orange mounds stretching along Loch Veagh. It was somewhat other-worldly, barren and beautiful, with low grasses swaying silently in the wind.

Yesterday was our day to shop, and we visited four shops in and around Dunfanaghy village. One was The Gallery, an art gallery and gift shop run by woman who lives upstairs. I heard her tell a customer that if she found the store closed, she should just ring the bell and they would come down! Another was housed in an old work house and a small shop in the center of town sold the work of its two owners along with other gifty items. I was able to find the summer purse I’ve been looking for and a pair of gloves there. The last stop was McAuliffe’s, a mainstay store carrying everything Irish in the heart of Dunfanaghy. It is where I bought my Aran sweater and Santo’s wool cap seven years ago. Sadly, the store has recently been sold and is closing. Sadder still, it was not sold as a going concern, so it is anyone’s guess what the space will be used for in the future. Alison, Maurice, and Lucy were truly heartbroken to hear of this. The store was such a part of their visits here and the place where many Christmas presents were bought.

Many days, by the time we finished dinner and cleaned up, we were nearly ready for bed. But the past two nights, we were able to introduce Alison, Maurice, and Lucy to Ted Lasso using our Apple TV account. They love it – and we are loving re-watching and sharing it with them.

In between and around all the above has been wonderful down time just relaxing at the cottage, everyone doing their own thing, reading, on phones and tablets, sipping tea, and of course talking. Alison, Maurice, and Lucy are so easy to be with. I am already starting to dread the goodbyes we will have to say in a few days. They are like family, but way to many miles away. They have helped me to relax, and have shown us, just by living their lives, ways that we can improve our own. We pray that we will be able to hold onto what we have learned and experienced here.

Day 5

Sunday, October 20, 2024

Today is a travel day. We are headed to Dunfanaghy (done-fan-a-hee) in Donegal for a week at a cottage that Alison and Maurice have been renting twice a year for several years, usually in April and October. It was relatively easy for Santo and I to pack up in one suitcase. But Alison and Maurice had all the real work of bringing not only clothes, but food, cooking pans, blankets and toys for the black cocker spaniel, Susie, and of course Halloween decorations! Lucy loves to decorate for Halloween and has brought pumpkins, lighted garlands, tablecloth, napkins, candles, black roses and more.

We could do little to help except, after our croissant breakfast, sit on the couch and stay out of the way. Around 10:30 we were ready to pack up and we were finally able to help carry things out to the two cars. We were off a little past 11, the boys in one car and Alison, Lucy, and I in the other.

While the skies were clearer than expected, the called-for winds were fiercer than imagined with gusts up to 50-60 mph. The news called for no travel in Northern Ireland unless absolutely necessary. For this family, Donegal is absolutely necessary!

The ride was indeed windy and Alison had to keep both hands firmly on the wheel. One bridge was closed due to the wind, so we had to take a detour around it. Halfway there we make a pit stop at a roadside gas station and restaurant. It was actually difficult to walk from the car to the building due to the wind trying to knock us off our feet. As we continued on, the skies darkened, and far up ahead, right where we were going, they were black. We hit intermittent rain, but when we arrived at the cottage it was relatively light so we were able to unpack the car with relative ease.

The cottage is a one-story, whitewashed structure. The entrance is through the square kitchen. To the right is the wing with a bathroom and 2 bedrooms; to the left is the wing with the master en suite bedroom and the living/dining room. Alison and Maurice insisted we take the master bedroom.

The heart of this home is the long living/dining room (probably 20 x 12 feet) which has three walls of extra large picture windows that make you feel as if you are outside in the remarkable scenery. Even with the rain, wind, and fog, we could appreciate how stunning this place is. A triangle of ocean is visible out one window, and all around are low hills dotted with white cottages. Looking out from this space, one can have no doubt that you are in Ireland!

We made quick work of putting things away, arranging things in the kitchen together so that finally I would be able to help cook, clean-up, etc. Alison got a chicken ready for roasting while I prepared the multi-colored carrots and potatoes. I also got out some cheese and crackers to tide us over until dinner since we had skipped lunch and were running only on our croissant breakfast. As the food filled the house with wonderful smells, Alison and Lucy arranged the Halloween decorations and set a festive Halloween table, complete with eyeball coasters, spider web cloth, pumpkin plates and Wicked-Witch-of-the-West feet for each leg of the table. Santo, Maurice, and I took seats in the living room and alternately read and stared out at the view. The wind was still fierce, and the hedges rimming the cottage were blown near sideways, with wild gusts roaring past us, though the house felt very tight and secure.

Alison and I plated the dinners in the kitchen to serve in the dining room. It was a veritable feast; we were setting the bar high for the week’s dinners. Santo surprised me with a Marzipan Stollen, a real treat, which we enjoyed with our tea for dessert. We are getting to be quite the tea lovers. We especially enjoy the electric kettle and tea pot which make, as Lucy would say, a proper cup of tea.

After dinner I moved a comfy chair up to the dining table, so I could enjoy the stories and laughter in comfort.

How can you feel so close and connected to people who grew up and live thousands of miles away in a different culture? We are thankful every day for this special friendship.

Day 4

Saturday, October 19

Another leisurely morning feeling well-rested and ready for the day. Lucy took care of us this morning, with warm, fresh “pain au chocolat” (croissants with chocolate filling), and a pot of tea. Unlike yesterday, the weather is beautiful—clear, crisp, a refreshing 58 degrees. We ventured into downtown Holywood this morning for some shopping.

Holywood is a lovely town, really a small city, not too different in size from Auburn but with many more retail shops. The main shopping street slopes downhill to the “lough” (bay). There were green grocers, bakeries, butcher shops, a re-use shop, clothing boutiques, jewelers, and numerous “charity” (thrift) shops. It was interesting to see the food establishments right next to clothing and jewelry stores. Alison was greeted warmly at each establishment, often by name. Since each food shop was specialized, the goods were exquisite—fresh, homemade, natural. We got homemade granola, a loaf of fresh grain bread, croissants, meat, cheese, and more for our trip to Donegal.

Our lunch at home was a spread of fresh bread, ham, and 4 types of cheese just purchased at the cheese shop. Perfect for filling our tummies before our afternoon pub crawl.

Alison, Santo, and I went to downtown Belfast for a special Irish music pub crawl hosted by two local musicians. We met at one pub, where we enjoyed, along with our Guinnesses, traditional music on the Uilleann pipes and concertina. Between sets, the musicians provided information about the instruments and told us how a typical Irish sessions works. They are not jam sessions, as you would think of for jazz performances. Rather, all Irish musicans have stored over a thousand tunes (jig, reels, and slip-jigs) in their heads! One musician leads the session, and the others follow his lead as to what tune will be played next, cuing each other with a nod of the head or subtle smile. The tunes are played in sets of 3 or 4. We learned about the different rhythms: 4-4 time, the 4 beats counted by the mnemonic “Black & Decker;” 6-8 time with the mnemonic “carrots ‘n cabbages;” and 9-8 time with the mnemonic “carrots ‘n cabbages radishes.” The audience was challenged to guess the rhythms after hearing a few tunes, but the play was so fast that it was surprisingly hard to do.

The Uilleann pipes are one of the most sophisticated instruments in the world, much more so than the more familiar Scottish bagpipes. The bag sits under the players left elbow, and he pumps it by lifting his arm then squeezing with his elbow. There are stops on a large pipe leading from the bag, where there is also a button for turning the drone on and off (something not possible on the Scottish bagpipes). In addition, the piper plays a flute-like instrument with his mouth and fingers, pumping another bag under his other arm. It is incredibly complex and as you listen it seems impossible that all the rich sounds produced are being played by one person.

The concertina was a beautiful instrument with black and silver hand plates and leather bellows with a gold design. It is octagonal in shape, and the musician played it rested on his knee, though he told us this was not the way it was supposed to be played and he was often scolded by other concertina players. The concertina played the melody in long, haunting notes, with accompanying chords humming underneath. This particular instrument was 125 years old and insured for 10,000 pounds.

After about one and a half hours, we did our “crawl” to the next venue, another downtown Belfast pub. Along the way, our guides stopped at several sites important to the musical history of Ireland. We walked through the first floor of the pub on our way to the lower room. The place was hopping, people of all ages, sitting or standing, beers or Guinnesses in hand. In the back room, an actual session was taking place. The downstairs room was reserved for us. Our guides took their seats at the front of the room, where they were joined by a girl in a black ballet top and short skirt over black stockings. Our dancer.

After explaining a bit about how the dancers and musicians worked together, take cues from one another, she demonstrated several dances, arms tight to her sides, feet moving faster than seemed possible, legs kicking fast and high. The she got four volunteers from the audience to join her and taught them a simple dance, which they then performed quite ably.

When our guides announced that we were near the end of the tour, I felt a tinge of disappointment. I relished every moment of their final set. On our way out, we stopped upstairs at the session which included about six musicians, all male, around a long table at the back of the pub. There were violins, Uilleann pipes, guitar, and flute. I loved watching the eye contact among the players and the movements of their fingers as they played, all one with the rapid rhythms of the music.

We arrived home sometime after 6 pm. Alison and Lucy quickly prepared a meal of roasted pork chops, mashed potatoes, and green beans. I don’t know how they do it all in their tiny kitchen. The room is so small, one narrow aisle down the middle, that it is hard to help. On top of that, there are stockpiles of food in preparation for our week-long trip to Donegal filling up the kitchen table. There just isn’t room for any more bodies and no free surface to work.

So once again we are served a magnificent meal, having done nothing to help prepare it. The pork chops are delicious—roasted then topped with applesauce and blue cheese and placed under the grill til the cheese melts. Three votive candles in the middle of the table create the familiar warm atmosphere of our home away from home. We enjoyed our meal, more stories, and laughter.

We ended the night in the living room, first watching a political satire program, Have I Got News for You, on BBC 1, which included some pointed barbs about Trump that really hit the mark, then a few episodes of Father Ted, a 1990s sitcom about 3 priests on a remote Irish island that is so silly and over-the-top that it is surprisingly hysterical.

Another full day of enjoying Ireland, enjoying our dear friends, who are getting dearer every day, and basking in the warmth that surrounds us.